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Anyone install their new PPH headers yet?

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murnutz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got mine last week but have yet to have them installed. I called a local muffler shop that I have used for a prior exhaust problem and inquired about installing the system, however, they said that they'd only do the welding. After looking at the directions and taking a peek under the hood I'm thinking that I may be able to install the headers myself. Has anyone installed the PPH headers themselves? I'd like to know if I get everything connected and then run the 3" to 2.5" flange catalytic connector without having it welded prior to start up, is it going to cause the check engine light to come on? I can deal with it being loud until I can get the weld done I just don't want the dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree.

Thanks,
Murnutz

update?so I used the trusty search command and was able to get some info from this thread?

http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3639

I think I should be okay installing the headers and then going to an exhaust shop
 
#2 ·
Well, I received my headers last Friday and would have installed them this past weekend but I have a problem. Mike accidentally sent me 2 passenger side headers and no drivers side. I have already called them and they rushed me out a drivers side and a call tag to return the extra passenger side. You guys should check you boxes to be sure you didn't get 2 drivers sides instead of one of each.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Okay, so I tackled installing the headers tonight (3 Jul.) I figured that I could take everything off tonight and then put the new stuff on 4 Jul. I went and rented a reciprocating saw, which was a great help. I had the manifolds and all the pipe off within 1.5 hour. Since I was on a roll I went ahead and put the headers and all the pipes on. It Took about 1.5 hours again.

One thing that I highly suggest is to install and tighten the 3" to 2.5" angle cut flange to the y-pipe off of the vehicle. It's nearly impossible to get a wrench/socket where it's located to get it tightened. In fact I'm still not done with it. I'm a little sore from laying under the D trying to dick with it. Also the O2 sensor didn't want to cooperate and go back together. I figured that I'll try finishing up those two things when I have some daylight. The shop light I had was casting shadows making it tough to get a good look at the O2 sensor.
 
#4 ·
Great Job
Once you get some rest and some daylight all should go well
Its best to walk away from some projects sometimes and come back to them
Steve
DOC Pres
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Well I got my O2 sensor snapped back together and tightened up the flange adapter this afternoon. No problems upon startup except for the fact that it's a little loud because I need to get the cat welded to the flange. I plan on dropping of the D at the exhaust shop tomorrow at lunch and pick it up after work. I'll report back at that time what I think. Overall this project not hard at all.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Today I had the chance to have the header flange welded up to the cat. Man that thing was obnoxiously loud prior to the welding. It sounds good now! I can definitely feel the power difference; it pulls nice from a dead stop. I'm pleased with this purchase overall. How's the install going for everyone else?
 
#8 ·
I wanted to have a shop do it but am having trouble finding someone to do the install, in my case I'm eliminating the pre-cats and installing O2 simms and 3 shops I've talked to don't want to deal with that. I'm in NH, didn't think there would be much worry about this since the primary cat is still in place.

If I don't find someone Monday I'll tackle it myself, you guys are giving me confidence that it'll go smoothly.
 
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#10 ·
Maybe I'm missing something here - if I eliminate the pre-cats, and leave the O2 sensors that are just after them, won't they always show failure with the cats removed? That's what I had assumed, please set me straight before I get started!
 
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#11 ·
First off where are existing 02 located?
If you just eliminate the precats only and still have the standard cat in place and you have 1 02 before and 1 -02 after it all should be well.
If you have 4 02 sensors 2 by each precat as well. You'll need to contact Fastman to get help
Steve
DOC Pres
 
#12 ·
Good news and bad news. I located a shop to install the headers, turns out its a guy very close to me that seems to know a bit about Dodge's. I spoke to him this morning, no problem doing the job for me.

Then the D died on me. The check engine light had been on for about a week, I of course ignored it. Today it bucked and died, I re-started and it ran OK for a few miles, did this again, the 3rd time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the same guy I spoke to about the headers, got there around 1:30.

He called me around 8:00 pm, said it was a bad fuel pump, he'd have a new one in and installed tomorrow. Hopefully that'll fix it.
 
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#14 ·
He said he jumped something to get power to the relay, it was fine and there was power to the pump, but the pump wouldn't run.

The symptoms certainly seemed like a fuel pump but I've never had one fail below 90,000 miles before. I hope he's right, otherwise it'll be an expensive trial and error. I'll keep you posted. Pretty aggravating day but at least I made it to my afternoon meeting on time.

By the way the guy said he has a Magnum with a Hemi.
 
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#15 ·
That's a pretty expensive Trial and Error if he's wrong
Steve
DOC Pres
 
#16 ·
If the check engine light was on, what was the code? Find out.
 
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#17 ·
After it stalled and wouldn't start, I tried disconnecting the battery cable and turning the ignition on and off 4 times (I just read that here a few days ago) to reset the PCM. Didn't work, but the check engine light went out. The repair guy said there were no error codes showing when he tried to read them.
 
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#18 ·
You tried to check codes with the battery cable off? That'll reset the check engine light. Disconnecting the negative cable and turing the key to ON (for 30-45 sec) will reset the lamp. If the condition is still present, the light will come back on or it'll stay off if there are no faults senced. The code however will remain store in the PCM for a certain number of starts. (It'll be there for a while).

To check codes, turn the key OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON and leave it in the ON position. Autozone and some other shops will read codes for free.
 
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#19 ·
No, I disconnected and reset just to see if whatever problem I was having would go away, kind of a last resort. I probably tried to start it 12 or 15 times after that with no luck before getting towed.

I just had a call from the repair shop, he says the new pump fixed the problem, they have road tested and all is well. I hope this took care of it.
 
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#20 ·
Ask him to show you the old one
I'm sorry I can't believe it went bad but I guess anything is possible.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
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