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Rathiem

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've been on a journey to better the sound from the factory Beats system over the last year or so steeping through incremental upgrades. Speaker swap, then added the sub, now the DSP Amp.

My process hasn't been as involved as some of the builds on the site but I do appreciate the knowledge many of the posts here have provided. Just passing along in case anyone is looking to better the sound in their Durango.

My hardware includes Infinity Reference tweeters, 6x9 in the front and 5 1/4 in the rear doors and a powered JL Audio 12 in the rear. I have done sound deadening work at and around the 6x9 speakers in the front doors. Using all of the existing speaker wiring as well.

I installed the Kenwood DSP amp and Maestro this weekend which removes the factory amp and replaces it via 3 components (amp, Maestro module and harness). Everything was plug and play. Remove the 2 factory amp harness plugs and use the new harness to plug in the new equipment. Wiring diagram is provided to wire in the speaker wire for the proper locations from the harness to the amp. This amp has 6 powered leads and I wired in my front tweeters on channels 1/2, front door woofers on 3/4, and rear door speakers on 5/6. There are 4 additional pre-amp leads and hooked my powered JL Audio 12 on 7/8.

There is a DSP control app that I used to then setup the sound/EQ for the entire system. X-over is managed through the app along with time alignment and setting up the speakers and locations.

How does it sound? Always relative to the end user... for me it sounds like what I've wanted from the beginning. Smooth, whole, no funny trickery from the factory amp. It's provided balance and synergy to the speakers. It sounds clean and warm and sounds good at a normal listening level and kicks good when you want it loud.

Most of my listening is via Bluetooth on an iPhone 7 with Apple iTunes. When I connect via USB or listen to a CD the sound is similar although a little cleaner. What I find is you just get more volume at a lower volume setting. I'm still messing with the app and tweaking a little. I haven't done any RTA work, just ear balling it.

Happy to try and answer questions. I'm very pleased.


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Love it man, good job
 
BTW do you have a mic and REW or some other software? I can guide you through how to use something like that to get the most out of this, if you need help with it. But, I love where this has gone so far. I think processors and harnesses like this are the future, especially for convenience in removing later.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I'll see what I can get up in the next couple of days for you. I mounted the amp in the rear cargo storage bin. Harnesses were long enough to come through the jack access. Forgot to mention I needed to run a new amp power kit. Amp has 2 / 40 amp fuses so ran a 4 gauge wire via a Rockford Fosgate amp install kit. Go to Crutchfield and type in your vehicle and or search for the Kenwood XR600-6DSP. I got it local and saved $200 on the amp.


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I wish idatalink's website was working properly in the AR subsection. Right now you are the pioneer in this.

The Rockford DSR1 is supposed to use the AR as well.

Running power in this truck is ridiculously easy. Tons of room under the base panels and it's all in the cabin. The hardest part Imo was working in the tight confines of the battery compartment to wire up a circuit breaker.

While you are in there I highly recommend creating a reinforced ground.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Here are the pics of the install. The power wires are ran on the passenger side as Lanson states. Under the 2nd row kick plate and then under the rear wheel well trim and under/across the 3rd row seats. I took out the factory sub and have my lesser used items like tow straps where that was and they can be reached by the hinged finish cover that is part of the rear cargo lid between the cargo area and 3rd row seats (the flaps that cover you seeing under the 3rd row). If you wanted to you could cut a hole in the plastic tub as that whole area is carpeted under where the sub would be. I wasn't going to pull the rear cargo pan again for pics but once you take it out the amp is right there in the lower left corner, you just pull the 2 wiring harnesses out of the amp.

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So with this, you remove the factory amp and hook it directly to the amp wire harness? Do the EQ, fader/balance, speed volume, etc. controls still work on the factory head unit?

Wonder how this solution compares to the JBL MS-8.

Also, do the rear camera beeps come out from all the speakers now, since you don't have the d-pillar speakers hooked up?

I'm very intrigued!!!
 
So with this, you remove the factory amp and hook it directly to the amp wire harness? Do the EQ, fader/balance, speed volume, etc. controls still work on the factory head unit?

Wonder how this solution compares to the JBL MS-8.

Also, do the rear camera beeps come out from all the speakers now, since you don't have the d-pillar speakers hooked up?

I'm very intrigued!!!

Well, this one is available, for one! the MS-8 is impossible to find, and if you find one, you then have to contend with aging electronics, and trust me I am fearing the day mine fails. I've had it 7 years now! You lose the center though.

I'm definitely in for answers to your questions on the rest though, this item and the DSR-1 seem the best choices coming up.
 
Hey Lanson - which one loses the center? The Kenwood? I definitely like having a center channel. Makes tuning for all seats MUCH easier than without. Just started looking at the DSR-1. Definitely like the idea of getting rid of the factory amp.

And I'm a little embarrassed to say that I have an MS-8 that's been sitting in my office for over a year now. Brand new, bought from Sonic Electronics before their stock ran out. I think I have everything I need to install it, but there always seems to be other priorities that take my time.

Now, if there is something like the DSR-1 coming out that's shiny and new, and easier to install, then I'd ponder selling the MS-8 and buy the new hotness. :)
 
Hey Lanson - which one loses the center? The Kenwood? I definitely like having a center channel. Makes tuning for all seats MUCH easier than without. Just started looking at the DSR-1. Definitely like the idea of getting rid of the factory amp.

And I'm a little embarrassed to say that I have an MS-8 that's been sitting in my office for over a year now. Brand new, bought from Sonic Electronics before their stock ran out. I think I have everything I need to install it, but there always seems to be other priorities that take my time.

Now, if there is something like the DSR-1 coming out that's shiny and new, and easier to install, then I'd ponder selling the MS-8 and buy the new hotness. :)

No option I know except the MS-8 (and the Alpine H800) can do a proper center channel right now. Andy's Audiofrog product may in the future, but that's not certain. I'm with you, I love center channels done right.

Just so you know, that MS-8 new is like gold. Of course I really want you to USE it, but if you sold it on DIYMA, it would go fast and for top dollar.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
So with this, you remove the factory amp and hook it directly to the amp wire harness? Do the EQ, fader/balance, speed volume, etc. controls still work on the factory head unit?

Wonder how this solution compares to the JBL MS-8.

Also, do the rear camera beeps come out from all the speakers now, since you don't have the d-pillar speakers hooked up?

I'm very intrigued!!!
Yes on the harness. You unplug the 2 harnesses from the factory amp and you use the harness that is specific to the Durango to utilize those. I cut nothing from the factory to install. All of the head unit controls remain intact. Although, I have everything set to zero and all of my settings and control are through the Kenwood app since this is a DSP. I get to cheat a little cause I have a base control knob for the sub, but that's all I touch now.

This solution does not allow the center channel, but could. This unit has 6 powered channels. I've chosen to power the front tweeters, front woofers and rear doors. So no use from the center or rear pillars. A couple options would be to run new wire and use component crossovers to only take up 2 channels. You could then use one of the other channels for the center because you freed up 2 channels. 75 watts at 4 ohms so your choice. There are also 2 sets of pre-amp outs so you could wire in another amp and chain it through the DSP amp and based on how my powered sub is working (and the control I have) gain DSP control over that secondary amp by chaining it through the RCA pre-amp outs. For what it is for my purpose and with the sub this is plenty of volume for me and I'm not missing the center at all. The stage is up front and full. I've been messing with the crossover points and time alignment and I'm really enjoying this. I cannot express the improvement. Lanson I know you did sweeps to show how off things were. Honestly I think my ears are still adjusting to how bad the factory EQ was. I feel like whole bands were missing and others were so overemphasized that I'm making incremental adjustments to become normal again :) what I can say is that 22-30 on the volume dial puts a smile on the face, no distortion, clean in my book and all the speakers actually sound like they are working together. What a novel concept...

Regarding the factory beeps and what not I've not tested all that out. I can tell you the turn signal clicks are intact. I do get proximity beeps and the Uconnect phone rings and I can talk to someone but them talking to me is not working properly. It sounds like 8bit satellite radio. I can hear them but it's not good. I've honestly been enjoying listening to music so much I haven't messed with all of those things. I'll get to that and report.


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Yes on the harness. You unplug the 2 harnesses from the factory amp and you use the harness that is specific to the Durango to utilize those. I cut nothing from the factory to install. All of the head unit controls remain intact. Although, I have everything set to zero and all of my settings and control are through the Kenwood app since this is a DSP. I get to cheat a little cause I have a base control knob for the sub, but that's all I touch now.

This solution does not allow the center channel, but could. This unit has 6 powered channels. I've chosen to power the front tweeters, front woofers and rear doors. So no use from the center or rear pillars. A couple options would be to run new wire and use component crossovers to only take up 2 channels. You could then use one of the other channels for the center because you freed up 2 channels. 75 watts at 4 ohms so your choice. There are also 2 sets of pre-amp outs so you could wire in another amp and chain it through the DSP amp and based on how my powered sub is working (and the control I have) gain DSP control over that secondary amp by chaining it through the RCA pre-amp outs. For what it is for my purpose and with the sub this is plenty of volume for me and I'm not missing the center at all. The stage is up front and full. I've been messing with the crossover points and time alignment and I'm really enjoying this. I cannot express the improvement. Lanson I know you did sweeps to show how off things were. Honestly I think my ears are still adjusting to how bad the factory EQ was. I feel like whole bands were missing and others were so overemphasized that I'm making incremental adjustments to become normal again :) what I can say is that 22-30 on the volume dial puts a smile on the face, no distortion, clean in my book and all the speakers actually sound like they are working together. What a novel concept...

Regarding the factory beeps and what not I've not tested all that out. I can tell you the turn signal clicks are intact. I do get proximity beeps and the Uconnect phone rings and I can talk to someone but them talking to me is not working properly. It sounds like 8bit satellite radio. I can hear them but it's not good. I've honestly been enjoying listening to music so much I haven't messed with all of those things. I'll get to that and report.


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The factory EQ on the Beats system was "tuned" by Dre and Iovine but I think they're crazy, just like you've found. There's too much boost in the wrong places, and it makes for a fatiguing sound. A smooooth sound curve like you'll be able to build now will make the system so, so much better.

Center (proper) won't be possible from these processors (DSR-1 or Kenwood) until a company starts ponying up for discrete center/surround logic processing. Usually this involves royalties from a company that's already figured it out, like Dolby. A mixed-channel derived center may be (or may not be) possible from these processors, but probably won't work out to a point where you'd gladly use a channel to get it.

I think the reason for the bad bluetooth call sound is the lack of center processing in the Kenwood unit. Not really the end of the world, but a snag potentially.

If you get around to picking up a calibrated mic, I'll be happy to walk you through how to measure and correct for a proper target EQ.
 
Older thread, but this is the same route I'm planning to take shortly after my Durango gets delivered. The plan is this amp/dsp and some GS series audiofrogs. This is a new piece and I think we'll be seeing firmware updates as the technology matures. As for the sub control, I thought I read somewhere that you could configure it so the bass control of the factory "EQ" could replace the knob you're using.
 
I was looking in the perfect tune app that RF released for the DSR1 and during the config, it has a layout to take the center into account. It has the center channel labeled as channel 3, which is that as the front left mid-bass. Not sure how that's going to work in practice, just noticed it while playing around with the app. Hopefully it ships by the end of the month, I am on the pre-order list.
 
It will be a center that is more of a fill, instead of a steered center. This is unfortunate. Based on all I could find, the data on the DSR-1 is that it will have the 360.3's basic functions in a nice small box, and require the AR system to connect. That means it will be a bad-ass stereo unit, but won't have center or surround algorithm abilities. Same as all other DSP's out there except Alpine's aging H800 platform.

Now that said, I've built about 1/2 my systems with center channels, and 1/2 without, ever since I've employed DSP's in my builds. Center has its place, and I hope more DSP's come out with steering logic for it. For now though, because the MS-8 is no longer available and I won't use the Alpine unit (cost vs. performance), I've done only stereo setups lately. I've mostly leaned toward using Helix processors, because they are amazing. The DSR-1 will be amazing too especially for the price, assuming the AR side of the equation gets good support. Maestro iDatalink needs to develop more vehicle compatibility, AND update their website.

What I REALLY want is something like a MiniDSP box (the new one is 12 channels!!) with a plug-in for different types of center-surround logic. I'd pay the extra royalties to have it.
 
It will be a center that is more of a fill, instead of a steered center. This is unfortunate. Based on all I could find, the data on the DSR-1 is that it will have the 360.3's basic functions in a nice small box, and require the AR system to connect. That means it will be a bad-ass stereo unit, but won't have center or surround algorithm abilities. Same as all other DSP's out there except Alpine's aging H800 platform.

Now that said, I've built about 1/2 my systems with center channels, and 1/2 without, ever since I've employed DSP's in my builds. Center has its place, and I hope more DSP's come out with steering logic for it. For now though, because the MS-8 is no longer available and I won't use the Alpine unit (cost vs. performance), I've done only stereo setups lately. I've mostly leaned toward using Helix processors, because they are amazing. The DSR-1 will be amazing too especially for the price, assuming the AR side of the equation gets good support. Maestro iDatalink needs to develop more vehicle compatibility, AND update their website.

What I REALLY want is something like a MiniDSP box (the new one is 12 channels!!) with a plug-in for different types of center-surround logic. I'd pay the extra royalties to have it.
I've never really gotten into DSP's until a bit ago and wish I would've done it sooner. :) I was chatting with idatalink via fb messenger and they are pretty helpful. As for their website, I totally agree, it needs to be updated. I'd like to think that both idatalink and RF may offer an update later with a true center channel option.
 
Interesting little tidbit of information, apparently when the DSR1 is released, it won't have the maestro aspect available. It's shipping as a standalone processor and at some time down the road you'll be able to use the T-harness. So basically the DSR1 is just like any other processor right now. Back to square one on my build cause I'm not waiting for Fosgate to release support that'll probably be released too soon anyway and be buggy as hell.
 
Interesting little tidbit of information, apparently when the DSR1 is released, it won't have the maestro aspect available. It's shipping as a standalone processor and at some time down the road you'll be able to use the T-harness. So basically the DSR1 is just like any other processor right now. Back to square one on my build cause I'm not waiting for Fosgate to release support that'll probably be released too soon anyway and be buggy as hell.
The original poster of this thread bought the AR you'll want. That should be it.
 
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