I just tried launching my Cobalt 226 (3800 lbs) on it's 1440 lb trailer with my DD GT 3.6 AWD at the Lake Canyon Yacht Club (a steep ramp) at Canyon Lake, TX. To my amazement my DD was actually was pulled (skidded) down the DRY ramp a foot or so when I stepped on the brake to slow the descent. I was going slowly, so it surprised me. This happened twice. Note that it has happened rarely in the past with my Silverado 4Dr 4WD...but I might of been descending more rapidly. What might fix this? Note there was no problem pulling the boat out. Here's a pic of my set up.
Steep Dry Boat Ramp and Durango GT
DBN
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I will keep that in mind. I actually had a Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW from etrailer, and the Trailer Shop could not figure out how to put it on, even with a Reese Pole-Tongue Adapter for Weight Distribution Systems - 14,000 lbs GTW, 1,400 lbs TW. I sent both back. I guess the space just ahead of the jack would not work, or the Shop is incorrect. That space ahead of the jack is 22 to 25 inches back from the front tip of the coupler. (pics are of my old surge coupler, but the measurements are the same as my new Bulldog one. I think the trailer was too narrow at that point and the adapter did not fit properly.
I think you need to extend the trailer tongue.
Like I said, I have 6' measured from the boat eye to the tip of the trailer coupler.
5' from the front of the winch mount to the tip of the trailer coupler...quite a bit more length than you show.
How do you launch the boat without sinking your rear truck wheels?
I don't use a WDH, have ZERO towing problems...have towed the boat on several long trips..2 trips over 900 miles.
Hemi 2wd...so should weight pretty much the same as your AWD V6.
Like I said, I have 6' measured from the boat eye to the tip of the trailer coupler.
5' from the front of the winch mount to the tip of the trailer coupler...quite a bit more length than you show.
How do you launch the boat without sinking your rear truck wheels?
I don't use a WDH, have ZERO towing problems...have towed the boat on several long trips..2 trips over 900 miles.
Hemi 2wd...so should weight pretty much the same as your AWD V6.
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You very well may have a valid point. I will measure it if I get up to the lake this weekend. From photos I've taken, the bow eye looks to be about 4 feed back from a tip of the coupler. The boat ramp that I use is at a private yacht club. It is extremely steep and long...made for sail boats. Members launch J 22's which have a deep keel... and they still need the assistance of a long rope to let the trailer down deep enough to launch!
Extending the trailer tongue will help in several ways;
1. Makes it easier to back up with the added length and provides more stability at speed.
2. Puts the boat further in the water, keeping more of the truck out.
3. Will lower the tongue weight.
4. Will provide you the length needed to install a WDH if you still need to do so.
1. Makes it easier to back up with the added length and provides more stability at speed.
2. Puts the boat further in the water, keeping more of the truck out.
3. Will lower the tongue weight.
4. Will provide you the length needed to install a WDH if you still need to do so.
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Thanks for the excellent advice, Chase 300! Depending on whether I go for the larger Cobalt 240 in the near future, I may just use the Andersen WDH ($500) that does work on my trailer as is, which I will be receiving today, vs. the cost of lengthening the trailer tongue (which I think would be more than $500). My Cobalt is a 1999, and is getting a "little long in the tooth."
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You know, core guys from Glastron created Cobalt. It was their Vision to make a great boat. Cost not considered. A boat made the way all great boats should be made. I think they created the Mercedes of boats.
The same Glastron that built those awesome James Bond boats in "Live and Let Die" and "Moonraker"?
If yes, no wonder I like their boats as I loved those old Glastron boats.
But really what I notice is they ride very well and clearly are made by people who actually own boats and use them.
If yes, no wonder I like their boats as I loved those old Glastron boats.
But really what I notice is they ride very well and clearly are made by people who actually own boats and use them.
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I loved those '70's era Glastrons too, they dominated the lake where I grew up. The modern versions had some real manufacturing issues, we have a 2005 18 1/2 ft. bowrider with a hull that blistered badly, plus fit and finish was really poor. But, the boat rides amazingly well, they stayed true to their good hull designs.
The Glaston-Carlson jet boats and I/O's were amazingly good looking boats!
The Glaston-Carlson jet boats and I/O's were amazingly good looking boats!
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They used to be made in New Braunfels Texas. The factory is now shut down and has been for many years. The Glastron boats of the seventies were very well made. Loved the Carlson designs...especially the outboard.
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UPDATE...Finally installed the Andersen WDH. It makes a world of difference in my ability to confidently control everything when towing my 5500 lb Cobalt and Trailer combo.
The only issue I have is that the triangle plate must be almost exactly perpendicular to the trailer before I can hook up the chains. If it is more than a 1/2 inch off, there is no way to hook up the chains. Lengthening the chains by one link causes the screw at the back of the chains (by the red bushing) to be too long for the Andersen Supplied Deep Socket to adequately fit on to tighten them to 6 threads showing (which is where my set up and trailer configuration indicated it should be).
However, I believe I did find a way around having to utilize the methods presented by Andersen to straighten the triangle plate (my boat ramp is very tight and very steep, requiring short and quick maneuvering). I believe (and will check again this weekend) that I found that the triangle plate is actually movable by hand when just the empty trailer is attached to the hitch...which alleviates straightening the plate by using the tow vehicle (Andersen's methods). I will try to get some pics together this weekend...as I was too busy having fun last weekend
The only issue I have is that the triangle plate must be almost exactly perpendicular to the trailer before I can hook up the chains. If it is more than a 1/2 inch off, there is no way to hook up the chains. Lengthening the chains by one link causes the screw at the back of the chains (by the red bushing) to be too long for the Andersen Supplied Deep Socket to adequately fit on to tighten them to 6 threads showing (which is where my set up and trailer configuration indicated it should be).
However, I believe I did find a way around having to utilize the methods presented by Andersen to straighten the triangle plate (my boat ramp is very tight and very steep, requiring short and quick maneuvering). I believe (and will check again this weekend) that I found that the triangle plate is actually movable by hand when just the empty trailer is attached to the hitch...which alleviates straightening the plate by using the tow vehicle (Andersen's methods). I will try to get some pics together this weekend...as I was too busy having fun last weekend
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Pics:UPDATE...Finally installed the Andersen WDH. It makes a world of difference in my ability to confidently control everything when towing my 5500 lb Cobalt and Trailer combo.
The only issue I have is that the triangle plate must be almost exactly perpendicular to the trailer before I can hook up the chains. If it is more than a 1/2 inch off, there is no way to hook up the chains. Lengthening the chains by one link causes the screw at the back of the chains (by the red bushing) to be too long for the Andersen Supplied Deep Socket to adequately fit on to tighten them to 6 threads showing (which is where my set up and trailer configuration indicated it should be).
However, I believe I did find a way around having to utilize the methods presented by Andersen to straighten the triangle plate (my boat ramp is very tight and very steep, requiring short and quick maneuvering). I believe (and will check again this weekend) that I found that the triangle plate is actually movable by hand when just the empty trailer is attached to the hitch...which alleviates straightening the plate by using the tow vehicle (Andersen's methods). I will try to get some pics together this weekend...as I was too busy having fun last weekend
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UPDATE ON STEEP DRY BOAT RAMP FRONT END LOCKING UP -- the combination of the Electric over Hydraulic brakes and Andersen WDH has stopped the sliding on the front end when backing down a steep boat ramp. Note, I have to put the brake controller (Tekonsha P2) on "Boost 3" when backing down the ramp to keep the front wheels from locking up (Thanks to the Member that suggested that as a remedy). Pulling the boat out is easy, with no loss of traction, at least on a semi-dry ramp.
Thank You for the update.
Had the same thing happen to me this past weekend for the first time.
Wet ramp, not really all that steep, but my Cobalt was pulling my truck down the ramp with front wheels locked up.
Not more than a foot each time, but annoying none the less.
Looking like the time has come to switch from surge to electric hydraulic brakes....plus new tires.
Had the same thing happen to me this past weekend for the first time.
Wet ramp, not really all that steep, but my Cobalt was pulling my truck down the ramp with front wheels locked up.
Not more than a foot each time, but annoying none the less.
Looking like the time has come to switch from surge to electric hydraulic brakes....plus new tires.
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Thanks for the input, I always wondered if a V8 would suffer the same front wheel drag...you answered my question. For me, I'm glad I purchased the V6, since 90% of the time I do not tow and love the extra gas mileage. The price of converting my surge to E over H was about $1400...and I had to replace my coupler (although Magnum trailers advised that they could weld the original "surge" coupler in place). I just went for a new one of better quality.
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UPDATE 2:
With regard to my Andersen WDH, I was worried that the brackets were "too angled" in my set up. I contacted Spencer at Andersen, and he advised me that yes they were and to switch the bolts in the bracket to the 5" position. I believe I tried that when setting up the hitch, as trailer is 5 and an 1/8 inches, but don't remember whether the bolt fit through due to the extra 1/8th. I will be traveling back to the lake this weekend and will give that a try...I.e, moving the bolt up a notch.
Spencer also advised me that if the bolt will not fit through, to simply shave down the bolt with a metal file to the point at which it will slide through. However, I wonder if shaving down one side of the bolt where it is smooth (not threaded), as I do not want to interfere with the threads, will still fit through? He also said the set screw will not be affected by the movement of the bolt and slight angle change of the bracket. We will see! Here is a pic of my measurement, along with a few more for perspective:
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Current Bracket Position:
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With regard to my Andersen WDH, I was worried that the brackets were "too angled" in my set up. I contacted Spencer at Andersen, and he advised me that yes they were and to switch the bolts in the bracket to the 5" position. I believe I tried that when setting up the hitch, as trailer is 5 and an 1/8 inches, but don't remember whether the bolt fit through due to the extra 1/8th. I will be traveling back to the lake this weekend and will give that a try...I.e, moving the bolt up a notch.
Spencer also advised me that if the bolt will not fit through, to simply shave down the bolt with a metal file to the point at which it will slide through. However, I wonder if shaving down one side of the bolt where it is smooth (not threaded), as I do not want to interfere with the threads, will still fit through? He also said the set screw will not be affected by the movement of the bolt and slight angle change of the bracket. We will see! Here is a pic of my measurement, along with a few more for perspective:
Current Bracket Position:
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I thought shaving the bolt would weaken it...I like your suggestion. What tool would I use to elongate the hole? A rat tail file?
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that is tough metal and a fair amount to grind thru, you'll probably want to use something pretty beefy to grind it.. like a carbide burr and some patience.. or you might be able to get your trailer shop or a machine shop to do it cheaply and cleanly.. dunno..
I'm not all that patient, I'd run out of four-letter words before the job was done using just a file..
I'm not all that patient, I'd run out of four-letter words before the job was done using just a file..
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