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Occasional growling sound with vibration.

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Wile E

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

My 99 D has made a strange noise 4-5 times in the past 4 weeks of driving to work (46 miles each way.) The noise and vibration sounds/feels like I'm driving over the rumble strip on the right edge of the highway. It lasts for only a few seconds and seems to be coming from the right front wheel area of my truck. It sort of feels like a splined connection is slipping or something like that. Does this sound like a front half shaft or universal joint? My truck is a 4WD model with the 5.9 and 122K miles. New Bilsteins, tires and religious oil changes and care. Any comments would be welcomed. It hasn't made the noise in 3-4 days now. I'm not really sure where to start looking. :?:
 
#3 ·
Leaning towards the bearings. Do you have a steering/drift/alignment issue present with normal drive? Does it feel like your D is trying to stop during this problem?
 
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#4 ·
Could be bearings but also look at the tires. Mine wear/are wearing on the inside. By the time I rotate them, there's some very weird noises that sound like what you describe. Can't put your finder on where it comes from sounds like a diff bearing or front wheel bearing. Also check the U-joints on the drive shaft.

I think I fixed my tire wear problem by replacing the bump stops in the front which seems to have raised the front up an inch or so.
 
#5 ·
I'll agree with everyone here my bet is the right front wheel bearing going sour!
Steve
DOC Pres
 
#6 ·
Taz: Replacing the bump stops shouldn't raise your D, unless you've lowered it and kept the stops at stock length. They're not supposed to contact anything at rest. I think you should check the toe-in on your front end.

The noise could be from the tires feathering from the front end alignment. You don't say how long you go between rotations, but you should be doing it every 5k for best life.
 
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#7 ·
I call them bunp stops for lack of a better description but they're part of the suspension and the front lower A frame rides touching them 100% of the time. Changing them was like adding new shocks and stiffened. As a side effect, it did lift the front.
 
#8 ·
Are you saying the circled item is always in contact with the lower control arm?

If so, you have serious problems.
 

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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Growling still there.

I rotate the tires every 6K miles. No noticeable pull to either side during braking or driving. Since the project I'm involved in at work is demanding a 7 day work week, I've contacted a local repair shop to take a look at the front hub bearings, CV joints and universal joints on Monday. Hopefully whatever the problem is, it won't involve the transmission or rear diff.

Thanks for all the feedback!

Wiley
 
#10 ·
Working at Midas, I've been able to check around on the hub/bearing assemblies our Ds have and found Checkers to be the best price around. AZ wants about $195 and they have to be ordered. Checkers came in a good bit lower and they usually have them in stock.

HTH & my 2¢
 
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#11 ·
I have to replace my right front hub/bearing assembly as well soon. Priced around my area, and dealer prices aren't too far off from places like Napa/Carquest/etc. Actually, Napa was more expensive. What I'm wondering is about quality. Are aftermarket ones good quality? Anybody have any short life problems with the aftermarkets or is Mopar the better way to go? It's about a $40-$50 difference, which I don't mind paying if its a better part. Thanks in advance.
 
#12 ·
When I had this strange rumbling on mine, it was actually the squirrel cage inbetween the transmission and transfer case. It's just plastic and over time I guess something must have caused it to break. Didn't happen all the time, but often enough that I noticed it. I too drive at least 50 miles one way to work, so I know what it's like :)

I had a hard time diagnosing it and wasn't till I took it to my transmission shop that the cause was found.
 
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#13 ·
Yes Tom I think they are. I guess I could crank up the torsion bar but I don't really see it as a problem. Contact is very slight. Could be the added weight of the Manik brush guard and the front receiver. I never did any adjustment when I added them but I have a new problem. Ball joints at 130 K? warranty or do it my self?? Uppers and lowers I think.

I have done the measurement 10.5 to the nut middle and 14 to the wheel center, 3.5 inches diff. Seems high by the book which states 2.9 is spec.

I've attached pictures. My FSM only shows the picture for the measurment with a 2wd. I assume the 4wd is the same measurement points.

See pics for details.

Did I do it correctly? comments?

I'd love to see some picks from another D. I guess I'll go snooping around some parking lots today. Hope I don't get shot.

Taz
 

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#14 ·
Definitely the weight of the brush guard and receiver hitch have made a difference in the ride height of your front end. You really need to do something to compensate for the added weight hanging off there. Tighten the torsion bar adjusters to compensate. Torsion bars can go bad also, not very common, but it can happen. It could be that you're a candidate for new adjuster units for the torsion bars, also.

Riding like that can really give you a harsh ride, too. No real suspension movement to compensate for road conditions. Like riding a hardtail Harley.
 
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#16 ·
At proper ride height the bumpstops won't be touching the control arm, so there must be a math error in there somewhere.

I only have the 2003 procedure online, and that must be different (73mm difference between the center of the wheel and the control arm pivot bolt heights)

Absolute measures are suspect? because they depend on tire diameter.

The '03 measurement, being a difference between the center of the wheel and the control-arm mounting bolt, actually measures the angle of the lower control arm? which is the important thing here.

?tom
 
#17 ·
Tom I see my error. 14-10.5=3.5 should be 14-11.1-2.9 (73mm.) So I'm .5" low.

I'm going to crank it up but I still think it'll be touching slightly or make contact at the slightest bump.

It seems the only way to change the lower ball joints is to do the complete arm replacement. Do you know if you can press the old ones out and replace them?

Taz
 
#18 ·
Old BJ's can be pressed out and new ones pressed in.
The tool can be borrowed from any Autozone.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
#19 ·
The lowers press out. They may be staked in or have a retaining ring. You'll have to "undo" either before attacking with the press.
 
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Wile E
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