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CEL on and due for Inspection, please help!

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nolimit06

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum as far as posting goes but I have been a long time lurker. Anyway, my girlfriend has a 2003 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L. It's due for a inspection here in North Carolina by the 15th of this month. Currently there are 3 trouble codes and I'm not sure how to approach getting these fixed. I have my own scanner, but I had AutoZone check it as well to see if it would give me an idea where to start. Below are the codes, I did replace the fuel cap just in case as the old one was a little loose. I know the thermostat most likely needs to be replaced as well. I hope someone can help me out here and hopefully this stuff is easily fixed. Also, the codes do show twice on the reader and I tried clearing out the codes but the won't clear out. Thanks in advance!

Codes: P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
P0442 (M) Evap Leak Monitor Medium Leak Detected A small leak has been detected in the evaportive system.
P0456 (M) Evap Leak Monitor Small Leak Detected Leak has been detected in the evaporative system.

Thanks in advance everyone!
 
#2 ·
If you're lucky, the evap codes are due to a bad gas cap... but more likely due to a cracked hose somewhere in the evap system.
 
#4 ·
You have to drive it at least 20 to 30 miles before the codes clear out of the system.

Aftermarket gas caps can be a hit and a miss. They may or may not work. I've always went with OEM caps because of that.

Now, once cap is on, best thing to do is clear the codes. Then drive it for about 20 miles. If no codes pop up, take it to get inspected right away.

If the machine still sees a code, then explain to them what you just did. Tell them you will drive it another 10 miles or so and be back.

When you do go back, if no codes have popped up by then, ask them to use their hand held scanner to make sure no codes are stored still.

Actually, you can ask them to use the hand held scanner first, before they hook up to the big machine. Technically, you get three chances to try and fix it before you have to pay again.


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Discussion starter · #6 ·
FireEater said:
You have to drive it at least 20 to 30 miles before the codes clear out of the system.

Aftermarket gas caps can be a hit and a miss. They may or may not work. I've always went with OEM caps because of that.

Now, once cap is on, best thing to do is clear the codes. Then drive it for about 20 miles. If no codes pop up, take it to get inspected right away.

If the machine still sees a code, then explain to them what you just did. Tell them you will drive it another 10 miles or so and be back.

When you do go back, if no codes have popped up by then, ask them to use their hand held scanner to make sure no codes are stored still.

Actually, you can ask them to use the hand held scanner first, before they hook up to the big machine. Technically, you get three chances to try and fix it before you have to pay again.


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Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. Where can I get a OEM gas cap online for cheap? I paid $10 for the one at AutoZone. I've also read about a canister that's in front of the fuel tank that can cause these codes as well, any experience with that? Also, I've tried clearing the codes with my scanner and they wouldn't clear. I'm going to disconnect the battery and see if that gets them to clear.


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#7 ·
the vapor canister is attached to the frame rail near the fuel tank.
on an 03 4.7L there is a leak detection pump attached to the frame under the driver's seat.
the purge solenoid is on the firewall.

All of these have hoses that might have cracks in them.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
tomk said:
the vapor canister is attached to the frame rail near the fuel tank.
on an 03 4.7L there is a leak detection pump attached to the frame under the driver's seat.
the purge solenoid is on the firewall.

All of these have hoses that might have cracks in them.
Click to expand...
Okay cool, I'll check those out as well. Are there specific replacements I need to buy if they're damaged?


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
#9 ·
Take it a step at a time. Try the gas cap you got. You need to clear the codes someway, then start driving it to see if they come back.

If they don't, your good to go. Keep track of your mileage, when you hit 30 miles and they are not back, get it in to get it inspected. Hopefully the cap will fix the issues.

I had to drive my Wife's Jeep 130 miles to finally get it inspected. As soon as he was done, and the Jeep still hooked up to the machine, the CEL came back on. But it had passed already, so I was good to go.

I had already replaced all four O2 sensors, but it turned out to be a blown out cat. She has two cats on a 6 cylinder. Damn money grab system.

I replace the whole cat setup and it has been good.


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Discussion starter · #10 ·
FireEater said:
Take it a step at a time. Try the gas cap you got. You need to clear the codes someway, then start driving it to see if they come back.

If they don't, your good to go. Keep track of your mileage, when you hit 30 miles and they are not back, get it in to get it inspected. Hopefully the cap will fix the issues.

I had to drive my Wife's Jeep 130 miles to finally get it inspected. As soon as he was done, and the Jeep still hooked up to the machine, the CEL came back on. But it had passed already, so I was good to go.

I had already replaced all four O2 sensors, but it turned out to be a blown out cat. She has two cats on a 6 cylinder. Damn money grab system.

I replace the whole cat setup and it has been good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
Thanks man, I'll try the battery trick and I'll post back. I work out of town so it'll be tomorrow afternoon before I get a chance to do it.


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
#11 ·
To clear the hard stored code without a code reader, pull neg cable off battery and turn key to start for 3 seconds, release and put the neg cable back on, this clear RAM memory. Engine will run rough for first couple minutes while PCM is relearning fuel trim curves
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
dizzyD said:
To clear the hard stored code without a code reader, pull neg cable off battery and turn key to start for 3 seconds, release and put the neg cable back on, this clear RAM memory. Engine will run rough for first couple minutes while PCM is relearning fuel trim curves
Click to expand...
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
The battery trick seemed to reset it. Going to drive it tonight and see if it comes back, if it doesn't come back I'm getting it inspected tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Okay guys, just hooked up my scanner and it's says the evap monitor is "inc" I'm assuming that's incomplete. Will I pass inspection or do I need to do something else?


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
#15 ·
Depending on state but most states you have to put some miles on it. It will show incomplete and they will tell you to come back. Chryslers take the longest to complete
STEVE
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
cchampagne232000 said:
In NC as long as you don't have more than 2 INC's they can pass you. I had this happen recently and had to drive for around 50 miles to get the car to read them. Was a PITA.
Click to expand...
Thanks, worth a shot while the CEL is off. The EVAP is the only incomplete.


Sent from my iPhone 7 Plus - 2003 Dodge Durango SLT Plus
 
#18 ·
If coolant temp error is factual then you could be running too rich to pass the sniffer test as the engine runs richer to get warmed up. Check engine temp and replace thermostat as needed, a 185 will work and pass just fine. Stock is 195 I believe.
 
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nolimit06
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