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Stalls out sitting at a red light

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firecadet613

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My D almost died out today stopped at a red light. RPM's dropped down to about 200 all of a sudden and then jumped up to 850-900 and then a few seconds later it started idling just fine. I had this problem a few months ago but never did find the root cause?it has a new TPS on it.

What can I check?

Joe
 
#2 ·
I'd take the throttle body off the plenum, clean it up real good with carburetor cleaner spray, and also remove the IAC motor from the throttle body, and clean it, as well as the passage where it's mounted.

It could have been just a sticky IAC motor and nothing more. If your throttle body has never been cleaned before, this is good preventive maintenance anyways, even if it doesn't fix the problem, but I have a feeling it will.

Edit: I've also seen oxygen sensors that are getting lazy cause conditions such as you descrbed. Depending on mileage, it may not hurt to toss in a new Mopar (not an aftermarket brand) sensor in it. The primary (pre-cat or Bank1, Sensor1 if you're reading it on the scanner) sensor is the one to change?The after-cat (B1S2) sensor will usually not cause a driveability problem, as it's main purpose is to watch over how effectively the catalytic convertor is scrubbing the gasses.
 
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#3 ·
Yep,
Had the same problem years ago, exact same symptoms. The dealer replaced the IAC under warranty and the problem went away. But I have read that just cleaning it'll fix it in most situations. Hope this helps!
 
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#6 ·
Mine had similar symptom. When it got bad, (running really rough and stalling) it threw a code which was the the O<sub>2</sub> sensor. Replaced sensor and problem went away. If it's not setting off the check engine light, I don't know if there's a test for the O<sub>2</sub> sensors to see if they're working properly. Maybe someone who knows will chime in.

Jim
 
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#9 ·
Hadn't thought about that! Battery going south could also be a good explanation. My Durango wouldn't idle when my battery died two weeks ago. Unless I held in the gas to keep the rpms up, it'd just drop and die. But after about 20 minutes of fighting to keep it running, all of a sudden it started acting fine and ran normal. I still replaced the battery and no longer have the problem.
 
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#10 ·
Our symptoms were the same as yours. I can't remember what it's called but there's a solenoid controlled valve that vents the gas tank into the system. On my '99 it's located on the firewall, high and just to the driver's side of center. It has a wiring harness and a couple of hoses going into it. It should open and close regularly, venting the tank gases. If the valve is sticking or if the solonoid is failing, then it runs rich or lean and the engine can stall. We did get a code to find this though. $60 for a new one and the problem went away.
 
#12 ·
My D has been in the shop for almost a month

Finally they figured out the MAP sensor was the reason it'd been freaking out.
Before the heads and the M1, it was stalling out at lights also once in a while. After the heads it was almost all the time. We thought it might be the newly modded computer but went back to stock and it kept doing it. Yesterday they swapped the MAP sensor and its purring like a kitten now (I just happened to have a box of sensors in the back seat.)

I'm going to try the modded computer again to see if it perks it up without freaking it out again.
 
#14 ·
Nuisance evap codes can be caused by a very small leak. Look at the hoses coming off the charcoal canister under the truck. I found a cracked one on mine about 2 years ago and recently found a small cracked hose on Vinny "Hugeram's" Ram 1500 as well when he was getting an intermittent evap code.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
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firecadet613
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