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wayra2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Having problems with a popping noise in the front end. I haven't been able to reproduce it at will. It occurs at very low speeds (like backing/entering the driveway) and most of the time when turning the wheel (although it has occured while backing out straight.) It only pops once per manouver. I have raised the front end with the wheels off of the ground and turned the steering wheel from one extreme to the other?not able to produce problem.

57,000 miles

Thanks in advance for any suggestions?
 
wayra2 said:
Having problems with a popping noise in the front end. I haven't been able to reporduce it at will. It occurs at very low speeds (like backing/entering the driveway) and most of the time when turning the wheel (although it has occured while backing out straight.) It only pops once per manouver. I have raised the front end with the wheels off of the ground and turned the steering wheel from one extreme to the other?not able to produce problem.

57,000 miles

Thanks in advance for any suggestions?
Front sway bar/sway bar bushings. 97% certainty. Do a Forum III search on front way bushings and you get all the answers. If you lube it, use motorcycle chain wax for the maximum span between lubes (6,9 months or a year +.) Grease will just last a couple of weeks usually.

IndyDurango
 
I was going to post same problem. I replaced the BJs with Moogs a while back and now have this CLUNK when I reverse and turn the wheel hard right out of the driveway. And yes, I lube every nipple :mrgreen:

BTW there are two sizes 28 and 33 I think on the ES Sway Bar bushings from ES. Is one for the 4.7 and one for the 5.2/5.9? Or which one for the 99?

greg
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I lubed up the sway bar bushings really good a few days and the problem is still as bad. Is there any chance that the lower ball joints could be bad. I have already replaced the upper ball joints.

On another happy note?while on the interstate yestersay, my hood latch decided to open. The hood flew up like a sail. Needless to say, I'll be needing a new hood also. :x

Thanks!
 
That's something to contact DC about. Hoods have a safety latch to precisely prevent such occurences. If your hood latch didn't restrain the thing from flying off you migh be in for a refund?

I'd replace the lower BJs as well - have fun they're a real PITA to remove?

greg
 
Steering flange

Greg, I lube every nipple I can as well :lol: but this is a steering collumn issue I think. There's a TSB on it I believe. The clunk is caused by the flange plate not lubricated enough. IMO

Bill
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Re: Steering flange

Volphin said:
Greg, I lube every nipple I can as well :lol: but this is a steering collumn issue I think. There's a TSB on it I believe. The clunk is caused by the flange plate not lubricated enough. IMO

Bill
If this were the cause, would the vehicle clunk when turning the wheel with the wheels not touching the ground (as if the vehicle were on a jack?)

I have the FSM. Where's this "flange plate" located?
 
Got my TSBs mixed up. Torsion Bar Issue?

Found this in my files?

Suspension - Snapping/Popping or Clunking
NUMBER: 13-001-00 Rev. B
GROUP: Frame And Bumpers
DATE: Oct. 27, 2000

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 13-01-00 REV. A, DATED JULY 28, 2000, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO **ASTERISKS** HAVE BEEN USED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS.
SUBJECT:
Snapping/Popping/Clunking Sound Heard During Braking Or While Driving Over Bumps

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the torsion bar anchor and on some vehicles, the transmission crossmember.

MODELS:

2000 (AN) Dakota
2000-2001 (DN) Durango
2000 (R1) Dakota (International Markets)

NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 4X4 (AN) DAKOTA VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE NOVEMBER 15, 1999 (MDH 1115XX), ALL 4X4 (DN) DURANGO VEHICLES, AND ALL (R1) DAKOTA (INTERNATIONAL MARKET) VEHICLES

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A snapping, popping or clunking sound may be heard while driving and braking over washboard roads, during a moderately hard stop at low speeds, and/or while slowly driving over moderate bumps such as a driveway approach.

DIAGNOSIS:
1. Road test the vehicle on a smooth surfaced road (preferably concrete) in an area where you can safely perform several abrupt stops from a speed of 20 mph.

2. Accelerate the vehicle to approximately 20 mph.

3. Apply the service brakes hard enough to allow the Antilock Brakes to activate. If a snapping, popping or clunking sound is heard, perform the Repair Procedure. If the snapping, popping or clunking sound isn't heard, repeat the procedure in reverse. If a snapping, popping or clunking sound is now heard, perform the Repair Procedure. If the snapping, popping or clunking sound is still not heard, repeat the procedure one more time in a forward direction before proceeding to the next step. If a snapping, popping or clunking sound is now heard, perform the Repair Procedure.

NOTE : DURING ANTILOCK BRAKING, IT IS NORMAL TO HAVE SOME PULSATIONS FELT THROUGH THE BRAKE PEDAL AND THROUGH THE VEHICLE'S SUSPENSION. DO NOT CONFUSE NORMAL ANTILOCK BRAKING PULSATIONS FOR A SNAP-PING /POPPING /CLUNKING SOUND.

4. Slowly drive the vehicle over a moderate road input such as a driveway approach or a curb. If a snapping, popping or clunking sound is heard, perform the Repair Procedure.

NOTE : AN ALTERNATIVE DIAGNOSIS CAN BE PERFORMED ON A WASHBOARD ROAD BY APPLYING A LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE WHILE DRIVING.

##############################
Repair Procedure Before November 15, 1999
##############################

1. Raise and support the vehicle with the front suspension allowed to hang.

2. If so equipped, remove the front skid plate by removing the three bolts from the front of the skid plate and the two bolts from the rear of the skid plate. Remove the rear skid plate by removing the two bolts from the rear of the skid plate.

NOTE : THE REAR BOLTS OF THE FRONT SKID PLATE ALSO SECURES THE FRONT OF THE REAR SKID PLATE.

3. Remove the bolts that attach the transmission crossmember to the transmission mount.

4. Support the transmission by placing a jack onto the transfer case housing. Using the transfer case supporting jack, raise the transfer case high enough to be able to get the crossmember out of the vehicle.

5. Remove the four transmission crossmember to frame attaching bolts.

6. Remove the transmission crossmember from the vehicle.

7. Turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt counterclockwise to release the spring load (Fig. 1.)

NOTE : COUNT AND RECORD THE NUMBER OF TURNS FOR INSTALLATION REFERENCE.

8. Remove the adjustment bolt from the swivel.

CAUTION : THE LEFT AND RIGHT TORSION BARS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. THE BARS ARE IDENTIFIED AND STAMPED R AND L, FOR RIGHT AND LEFT. THE TORSION BARS DO NOT HAVE A FRONT OR REAR END AND CAN BE INSTALLED WITH EITHER END FACING FORWARD.

9. Remove the torsion bar and anchor. Then, remove the anchor from the torsion bar.

10. Remove all foreign material from the torsion bar mounting in the lower suspension arm.

11. Insert the torsion bar ends into the suspension arm and the new torsion bar anchor p/n 52038973.

12. Position the torsion bar anchor and the bearing into the frame crossmember. Install the adjustment bolt through the bearing, the anchor, and into the swivel.

13. Turn the adjustment bolt clockwise the recorded amount of turns.

14. Perform Steps 7 through 13 on the other side of the vehicle.

15. Install transmission crossmember p/n 52020253AD onto the vehicle. Secure the cross-member to the frame with eight new bolts p/n 06506484AA. Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.)

16. Lower the transmission supporting jack so that the transmission mount rests on the transmission crossmember.

17. Secure the rear transmission mount to the transmission crossmember with the attaching bolts.

18. If so equipped, install the rear skid plate by attaching the rear of the skid plate with the two attaching bolts. Install the front skid plate by attaching the rear of the skid plate with the two bolts and the front of the skid plate with the three bolts. Tighten all bolts to 23 Nm (17ft. lbs.)

NOTE : THE REAR BOLTS OF THE FRONT SKID PLATE ALSO SECURES THE FRONT OF THE REAR SKID PLATE.

19. Inspect all four tires for the correct size and air pressure.

20. Lower the vehicle.

21. Move the vehicle to an alignment rack and then jounce the front of the vehicle.

22. With the vehicle on a level alignment rack, measure and record the distance between the alignment rack and the center of the lower suspension arm rear mounting bolt head (Fig. 2.)

23. Measure and record the distance between the alignment rack and the center of the front wheel (Fig. 2.)

24. Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference between the two measurements should be 47 mm (1.85 in.) +/- 3.25 mm (0.125 in.) for (AN) Dakota and 73 mm (2.9 in.) +/- 3 mm (0.120 in.) for (DN) Durango.

25. If the vehicle needs to have the suspension height adjusted, turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt clockwise to raise the vehicle or counterclockwise to lower the vehicle.

NOTE : ALWAYS RAISE THE VEHICLE TO THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT, NEVER LOWER THE VEHICLE TO OBTAIN THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT. IF THE VEHICLE SUSPENSION HEIGHT IS TOO HIGH, LOWER THE VEHICLE BELOW THE HEIGHT SPECIFICATION. THEN, RAISE THE VEHICLE TO THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT SPECIFICATION. THIS WILL ENSURE THE VEHICLE MAINTAINS THE PROPER SUSPENSION HEIGHT. IN ADDITION, IF A HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT HAS BEEN MADE, MEASURE THE SUSPENSION HEIGHT AGAIN ON BOTH SIDES OF THE VEHICLE.

26. Perform a front wheel alignment check on the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or the MDS 2, Group 02 for information regarding Wheel Alignment.

############################
Repair Procedure After November 15, 1999
############################

1. Raise and support the vehicle with the front suspension allowed to hang.

2. If so equipped, remove the front skid plate by removing the three bolts from the front of the skid plate and the two bolts from the rear of the skid plate. Remove the rear skid plate by removing the two bolts from the rear of the skid plate.

NOTE : THE REAR BOLTS OF THE FRONT SKID PLATE ALSO SECURES THE FRONT OF THE REAR SKID PLATE.

3. Remove one of the eight transmission crossmember to frame attaching bolts. Apply several drops of Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive, p/n 04318031, to the threads of the transmission crossmember bolt. Then, install the crossmember bolt. Tighten the bolts to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) Repeat until all eight bolts have been removed and reinstalled.

4. Turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt counterclockwise to release the spring load (Fig. 1.)

NOTE : COUNT AND RECORD THE NUMBER OF TURNS FOR INSTALLATION REFERENCE.

5. Remove the adjustment bolt from the swivel.

CAUTION : THE LEFT AND RIGHT TORSION BARS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. THE BARS ARE IDENTIFIED AND STAMPED R AND L, FOR RIGHT AND LEFT. THE TORSION BARS DO NOT HAVE A FRONT OR REAR END AND CAN BE INSTALLED WITH EITHER END FACING FORWARD.

6. Remove the torsion bar and anchor. Then, remove the anchor from the torsion bar.

7. Remove all foreign material from the torsion bar mounting in the lower suspension arm.

8. Insert the torsion bar ends into the suspension arm and the new torsion bar anchor p/n 52038973.

9. Position the torsion bar anchor and the bearing into the frame crossmember. Install the adjustment bolt through the bearing, the anchor, and into the swivel.

10. Turn the adjustment bolt clockwise the recorded amount of turns.

11. Perform Steps 4 through 10 on the other side of the vehicle.

12. If so equipped, install the rear skid plate by attaching the rear of the skid plate with the two attaching bolts. Install the front skid plate by attaching the rear of the skid plate with the two bolts and the front of the skid plate with the three bolts. Tighten all bolts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)

NOTE : THE REAR BOLTS OF THE FRONT SKID PLATE ALSO SECURES THE FRONT OF THE REAR SKID PLATE.

13. Inspect all four tires for the correct size and air pressure.

14. Lower the vehicle.

15. Move the vehicle to an alignment rack and then jounce the front of the vehicle.

16. With the vehicle on a level alignment rack, measure and record the distance between the alignment rack and the center of the lower suspension arm rear mounting bolt head (Fig. 2.)

17. Measure and record the distance between the alignment rack and the center of the front wheel (Fig. 2.)

18. Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference between the two measurements should be 73 mm (2.9 in.) +/- 3 mm (0.120 in.) for (DN) Durango and 40.5 mm (1.60 in.) for (R1) Dakota (International Market.)

19. If the vehicle needs to have the suspension height adjusted, turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt clockwise to raise the vehicle or counterclockwise to lower the vehicle.

NOTE : ALWAYS RAISE THE VEHICLE TO THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT, NEVER LOWER THE VEHICLE TO OBTAIN THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT. IF THE VEHICLE SUSPENSION HEIGHT IS TOO HIGH, LOWER THE VEHICLE BELOW THE HEIGHT SPECIFICATION. THEN, RAISE THE VEHICLE TO THE CORRECT SUSPENSION HEIGHT SPECIFICATION. THIS WILL ENSURE THE VEHICLE MAINTAINS THE PROPER SUSPENSION HEIGHT. IN ADDITION, IF A HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT HAS BEEN MADE, MEASURE THE SUSPENSION HEIGHT AGAIN ON BOTH SIDES OF THE VEHICLE.

20. Perform a front wheel alignment check on the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Group 02 for information regarding Wheel Alignment.
 
Yes, but

Not that bad for a dealer or alignment shop. I'd suspect it before the ball joints. Ball joints are very consistent not a once per episode kind of thing.
IMHO.

Bill
 
Bill, is this a freebie from the dealer or just a how-to? BTW mine clunks when cold and low speed in reverse whilst turning the wheel.

Re-reading your post Bill I noticed it said remove the cross member and torsion bar. There's no way in hell I'm doing that again :wall: But what I can't seem to follow is, where's the problem? The "foreign material" or a new cross-member and I don't see how that causes a clunk. What am I missing?

Thanx
greg
 
Anchors?

Greg, the item being upgraded is a new torsion bar anchor p/n 52038973.

Bill
 
But you have to remove the torsion bar and the cross-member?how much does that run as I really don't want to do it again? Can anyone else but the dealer do this? Thanx Bill
greg
 
TSB

Greg, here's the parts list. Looks like they're replacing the crossmember too. Also find the labor book on this repair. The top one is for early crossmembers. This is no freebie.

HTH

Bill
 

Attachments

Thanx Bill! So 4.5 hours at $85 comes to $382.50 (plus tax) plus parts as I can't see taking my cross-member out again. Question is can one live with the clunk like one lives with seats that move etc or will this eventually cause damage?

greg
 
Yup

I'd let it go myself until I was really really bored one rainy day.
Now if I started getting a worn trans mount or something I'd do it too.

IMHO the crossmember simply provides more clearance for the T-bars. Why not use a rubber sleeve? It'll wear out sure? after 100,000 mi.

My 25¢

Bill
 
Sleeve

:naughty: Nah, I'm not goin there.

Bill :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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