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BigRick01R/T

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm not very mechanicaly inclined. I need whatever info you guys can give on what to do to crank it. One complete turn ='s 1/4 inch? Which direction do I crank? Best procedure for cranking? TIA
 
Torsion Bars

Jack up the front end and put on jack stands. Tighten the adjusting nuts. Your figure wass correct 1 turn = 1/4". Put D back on ground and drive. That's all there's to it.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Do I place the axel's on the stands? Just wanna make sure I do it right the first time. So one COMPLETE 360 degree crank is equal to 1/4 inch. Do I need to replace spring or anything else. Should I replace factory shocks with recommended shock on stylin concepts, or another brand? Thanks for the help
 
Good questions, I'll be following it closely since I'd love to lower mine also. While we're at it, basic procedure for the rear? I've never deal with leaf springs before, are the loaded and ready to pop and kill ya if you loosen up one end or no? Sounds silly but gotta ask!
 
To lower or raise the front end with torsion bars.

Jack the truck up and place the supports on the frame rail on both sides with both front wheels off the ground.
Mark the position of the torsion bolt so you know how far you need to turn the bolt to make a complete 360'.
Once you have completed the height or drop you want lower your truck on it's wheels.
Next push up and down on the front bumper to set it at it's new height. Take the truck for a spin for 10-15min then recheck if you like the new look.
Repeat steps above if you want to go more higher or lower.

NOTE: An alignment should be done after you're happy the way the truck sits.

For the rear end.

Jack the rear of the truck and place supports on both sides so both rear wheels are off the ground. Don't forget to put stops under the front wheels for safety.
Place the jack under the rearend diff and jack it up to release the pressure off the leaf springs. That's it!!

I have pics and more info on my site.
 
Whoa

Rick you're lowering!
Here's what you do.
Jack up front of D supporting by Frame just behind front wheel.
Let front control arms hange free.
Find adjustment nut for torsion bars.
Now take the appropriate socket and place it on the nut hold it on don't let it fall off. Mark the socket by either scratching it or using a perm markermake a line on it? Turn Adjustment Bolt/nut COUNTER CLOCKWISE 9 full rotations. Then rotate back clockwise 1 full rotation.
Your D will be 2" lower in the front.
Any more questions just ask
Steve
DOC Pres
 
Torsion Bars

Like Skitzo says. I have never had to have mine aligned from the adjustment. However I always have it shecked when replacing tires, and it was done after ball-joint replacements. I have never had a tire wear problem that was alignment related in 137k mile of driving on the D.
 
Lube them with W/D or your choice,Help's with the turns,I did spray mine twice (Soaked three days each time) and I could turn mine with a Box-end wrench
No fighting with stubburn bolts

Rick
 
GREAT TIP

Greta Tip Rick (2kRT) Lube them puppies up for a day or so before you try and move them
Steve
DOC Pres
 
I know this has been asked before and there's a previous thread about it, but where do you get the shackles to raise the rear of the D up 1wo inches?? Thanks
 
I'm curious, what are the drawbacks to doing this? Any added stress on any components that you'd need to worry about? I also just replaced all my shocks and both swaybars, that have any ill effect? Tires rubbing I guess could certainly be an issue also. I'd just want to be sure that makeing something look different (the lowering) isn't going to cause all sorts of other problems. Also how much harsher is the ride? It doesn't bounce over every tiny bump like some ricer with cut coils or anything right?
 
Raising the torsion bars 1"-1.5" shouldn't need an alignment, I went 2yrs like that with mine and no problems. BUT when I lowered my Dak last spring 2.5" I had to get an alignment.

butch1581,
You can get the shackles anywhere like summit and Jegs. Look for Belltech Drop shackles BEL6400. On the Durango they'll give you a 2" lift.
 
rayjj said:
I'm curious, what are the drawbacks to doing this? Any added stress on any components that you'd need to worry about? I also just replaced all my shocks and both swaybars, that have any ill effect? Tires rubbing I guess could certainly be an issue also. I'd just want to be sure that makeing something look different (the lowering) isn't going to cause all sorts of other problems. Also how much harsher is the ride? It doesn't bounce over every tiny bump like some ricer with cut coils or anything right?
Lowering you're reducing the spring rate. Depending on how much you lower, it'll tend to bounce more like a ricer. It depends on what shocks you have and how much you plan on lowering if you'll need new shocks.
 
There have been several here that have Raised there torsion bars with no I'll effect and there have also been some that have lowered and had no problems at all. As long as you take the modest approach to either way you won't have any problems.
And Yes Indy we heard You?TWICE
Steve
DOC Pres
 
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