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Gave AJ a pm on facebook. He's maybe 1hr - 1.5 hrs away from me. Maybe he could get some engine mods done for me hah.
Oh yeah, I didn't even notice that you were in New York. You may be able to link up with him and do some live dyno tuning instead of only email tunes, although his email tunes seem to give better driveability than a lot of other folks' dyno tunes.
 
Discussion starter · #202 ·
If you're interested in other tuners, Johan (diablotoona) and AJ (hemituner) are also phenomenal at email tuning the Hemi's, easily considered 2 of the best, especially where boost is concerned. AJ will be my guy when I start looking for a custom tune.
Looking through my correspondences with RIPP, i notice that Johan(diablotoona) had some part in getting the template for the tune done, not sure if he did anything else asides from that. But Johan was definitely part of the tuning process. Just not sure if he did the final touches to it.
 
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It could be a number of things air restriction/bad fuel but I feel it is the tune, and a product of running rich. Too much fuel is being sent by PCM when you stomp it. As for TQ Management, The Diablo tuner should have been programmed to take out a substantial amount of TQ Management but may still have some in there to protect drivetrain components. Keep in mind RIPP Builds the SC but I am not sure they are tuners, It is very hard to tune when weather is very Humid and very cold.
Curious if You are on same tune as UFOKILLER. You both may have to go to someone who is a real good tuner, Sean at Hemifever is good guy, an email to him could not hurt. He may want you to send him Data Logs if you chose to have him tune for you.
STEVE
Actually, in retrospect and after more WOT tests today... that sputter/bog is actually this THING winding out 1st and hitting the rev limiter and very quickly getting into second... 1st is basically useless... :) :)
 
Yes on the 8 speed 1st is real tall. Is a pain whe using the trany on manual.
4.714:1

Wow... that *is* steep for a street-specific SUV! We put an NV4500 trans (5 spd manual) in my old rock crawling wrangler and that was a manual with a 5.56:1 1st gear (and 4.56:1 axles...). It was only made useful for the street with really, really large tires :) When I had 33's on it, #nope... when we went to 37's, yeah then it made sense :)

So I wonder... if it were possible to just omit 1st gear and do a launch directly from 2nd if there wouldn't be performance gains at the track due to the fact that you're in first gear for less time than it actually takes to shift into 2nd?
 
Miranda you can select 2nd gear and leave off that gear, I'm not sure how your truck will like it seeing you have more power. Just click the right paddle till it upshifts to 2nd and try to launch.
 
4.714:1

Wow... that *is* steep for a street-specific SUV! We put an NV4500 trans (5 spd manual) in my old rock crawling wrangler and that was a manual with a 5.56:1 1st gear (and 4.56:1 axles...). It was only made useful for the street with really, really large tires :) When I had 33's on it, #nope... when we went to 37's, yeah then it made sense :)

So I wonder... if it were possible to just omit 1st gear and do a launch directly from 2nd if there wouldn't be performance gains at the track due to the fact that you're in first gear for less time than it actually takes to shift into 2nd?
Yes, and quite a few mags testing Hellcats found that to be the quickest route down the track...starting out in 2nd.
Or leave easy so it shifts quickly into 2nd and then roll into the throttle.
 
Actually, in retrospect and after more WOT tests today... that sputter/bog is actually this THING winding out 1st and hitting the rev limiter and very quickly getting into second... 1st is basically useless... :) :)
4.714:1

Wow... that *is* steep for a street-specific SUV! We put an NV4500 trans (5 spd manual) in my old rock crawling wrangler and that was a manual with a 5.56:1 1st gear (and 4.56:1 axles...). It was only made useful for the street with really, really large tires :) When I had 33's on it, #nope... when we went to 37's, yeah then it made sense :)

So I wonder... if it were possible to just omit 1st gear and do a launch directly from 2nd if there wouldn't be performance gains at the track due to the fact that you're in first gear for less time than it actually takes to shift into 2nd?
I didnt realize you were bringing it to 1st manually and shifting it. Yes you can start off in second gear if you wish as said above. You are correct if you hit that rev limiter it will fall flat for a few seconds until it grabs the next gear.
One of the things a tuner may be able to make better than Ripp has done with the tune is allowing a quicker shot into next gear without that drop. I am sure for safety issues that RIPP doesnt take much of that management out because they dont want to be responsible for the extra TQ on Trans and transfer case, but they can handle a bit more than factory settings give them.
STEVE
 
I didnt realize you were bringing it to 1st manually and shifting it. Yes you can start off in second gear if you wish as said above. You are correct if you hit that rev limiter it will fall flat for a few seconds until it grabs the next gear.
One of the things a tuner may be able to make better than Ripp has done with the tune is allowing a quicker shot into next gear without that drop. I am sure for safety issues that RIPP doesnt take much of that management out because they dont want to be responsible for the extra TQ on Trans and transfer case, but they can handle a bit more than factory settings give them.
STEVE
Yes, but if you start in 2nd and stomp on the skinny pedal, it will use 1st anyway, no? EDIT, Just to be clear - I'm speaking strictly of a "launch" scenario, not a rolling start... I want to see what this thing will turn in the 1320, but I think that this "1st gear - rev limiter - 2nd gear - rev limiter - 3rd gear PULL into 4th" thing is going to have a serious impact on the times... It also creates an unnatural bucking situation and I bet the blow-off valve is doing extra duty trying to keep the boost from slamming the intake during these high RPM stutters.

On my older ram, there was an inline thingie... like a sensor spoofing device? I guess it was a resistor of some type. It tricked the computer into thinking that transmission pressures were lower than they actually were, so it increased them. This immediately increased the positive nature of shifting gears and allowed it to chirp the tires in 2nd (and even 3rd lol)... I wonder if there is a similar mod for our transmissions?

Furthermore, it was *said* that the increased pressure actually would increase the overall life of the transmission due to having higher pressure between the clutches and ergo less slippage? Who knows...
 
Well said and when its choking at 1st-2nd the boost that's built is being dumped at that brief moment to prevent Destruction. I have noticed that on mine when driving ,you have to come to a stop for it to go into 1st. You might try it at a slow crawl in 2nd & "NAIL" it and see if that confirms what is described.(it mite be quicker as it will be eliminating a shift point,or not because of launch the gearing provides) curious to hear results!!!!:thumbsup:
 
Yes, but if you start in 2nd and stomp on the skinny pedal, it will use 1st anyway, no? EDIT, Just to be clear - I'm speaking strictly of a "launch" scenario, not a rolling start... I want to see what this thing will turn in the 1320, but I think that this "1st gear - rev limiter - 2nd gear - rev limiter - 3rd gear PULL into 4th" thing is going to have a serious impact on the times... It also creates an unnatural bucking situation and I bet the blow-off valve is doing extra duty trying to keep the boost from slamming the intake during these high RPM stutters.

On my older ram, there was an inline thingie... like a sensor spoofing device? I guess it was a resistor of some type. It tricked the computer into thinking that transmission pressures were lower than they actually were, so it increased them. This immediately increased the positive nature of shifting gears and allowed it to chirp the tires in 2nd (and even 3rd lol)... I wonder if there is a similar mod for our transmissions?

Furthermore, it was *said* that the increased pressure actually would increase the overall life of the transmission due to having higher pressure between the clutches and ergo less slippage? Who knows...
My above reply was to Steve's previous, if you.are getting a Bucking situation at all shift points that DEFINITELY needs corrected with programming a custom tune. Like you said ,your blow off is seeing to much activity....lol. On my Harley that is Procharged with 13lbs boost,the blow off only hits at redline or Slow shift which I avoid at.all costs.it kills over all Boosted experience.
 
Nope, just 1->2 shifts. It just hits the limiter so fast, so it bucks and then shifts. 2->3 isn't quite as violent :)

EDIT - I should record a video w/ clear audio :) It's pretty intense :)
 
Nope, just 1->2 shifts. It just hits the limiter so fast, so it bucks and then shifts. 2->3 isn't quite as violent :)

EDIT - I should record a video w/ clear audio :) It's pretty intense :)
I wouldn't be able to sleep....until I figured it out...:oops:. It definitely isn't good for its longevity/reliability. You're breaking new territory and it'll have a few bugs to be worked thru.
 
I don't really think that there is anything TO figure out. It just can't shift fast enough :) I'll talk with RIPP about it when I submit my log for the check engine light/too rich situation.... I just have to remember to stop remote starting to let it warm up :) It seems to happen shortly after starting on a cold morning.

If RIPP doesn't have any suggestions re: SHIFT FASTER!!!, then I'll probably engage one of the tuners that Steve mentioned :)
 
Oh, and you have a supercharged motorcycle? :crazy: :) :)
It's A lot of fun,but I drive my D too much, its A lot of fun and provides a bit more protection on Htowns freeways.(they're freaking crazy).. I'm taking the D in tomorrow for final BB warranty get a LONG list fixed and want to complete my Brembo switch and seriously considering maybe try turbo/turbos since the warranty is over.
 
You will need seat time so you can find the right rpm to upshift if your going to leave in first.
You will not whine out first gear but just use it to get the truck moving fast blip upshift then run 2-3 .
I understand its tuff Cuz 1st so high.
When you do it perfectly you will be like wtf that was fast!!!!
At the strip shifting perfect can be .3-.5 sec.
If you let the truck shift on its own does it still bang 2nd and stutter ??
The reason 2-3 is less violent or the car handles it easier is Cuz the torque is less do to the lower gearing .
 
You will need seat time so you can find the right rpm to upshift if your going to leave in first.
You will not whine out first gear but just use it to get the truck moving fast blip upshift then run 2-3 .
I understand its tuff Cuz 1st so high.
When you do it perfectly you will be like wtf that was fast!!!!
At the strip shifting perfect can be .3-.5 sec.
If you let the truck shift on its own does it still bang 2nd and stutter ??
The reason 2-3 is less violent or the car handles it easier is Cuz the torque is less do to the lower gearing .
2nd winds out quite quickly, but nowhere near as fast as first (obviously). It does tap the limiter on 2nd, but I'd say the 2-3 shift is much more acceptable.

I'll see what I can do about learning how to use 1st, but I think it winds out SO quickly that trying to shift before the revs tach out on the limiter is going to be quite difficult given the lackluster responsiveness of the system and/or transmission to the paddles.

As it stands, that 1-2 shift is basically like missing the 1-2 shift by physically missing a gear on my old tremec world-class T5 302 mustang :) It taps the limiter and then gets its act together :) At least I had the nitrous tied to a MSD 6AL with a mandatory shutoff relay on the spray at 6750 so when you tapped the limiter at 7200 you weren't spraying :)
 
2nd winds out quite quickly, but nowhere near as fast as first (obviously). It does tap the limiter on 2nd, but I'd say the 2-3 shift is much more acceptable.

I'll see what I can do about learning how to use 1st, but I think it winds out SO quickly that trying to shift before the revs tach out on the limiter is going to be quite difficult given the lackluster responsiveness of the system and/or transmission to the paddles.

As it stands, that 1-2 shift is basically like missing the 1-2 shift by physically missing a gear on my old tremec world-class T5 302 mustang :) It taps the limiter and then gets its act together :) At least I had the nitrous tied to a MSD 6AL with a mandatory shutoff relay on the spray at 6750 so when you tapped the limiter at 7200 you weren't spraying :)
Freakin' "PRETTY KOOL CHICK"..& Smart.... (She drives a " Stang" Too)!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Freakin' "PRETTY KOOL CHICK"..& Smart.... (She drives a " Stang" Too)!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Used to :) Back in the early 90s, my father taught me how to rebuild a 302 from scratch for an old early 80s mustang that we had around :) We went with 10.5:1 forged flattops, replaced the crank and rods with forged, used older D00E casting heads, Performer RPM intake and cam (290/300 if I remember right), 1.6:1 roller rockers, MSD ignition, Holly 4150 650cfm double pumper and so on :) We wound up breaking the stock 7.5" rear end and had to get a donor 8.8 from an 88+ mustang from the junkyard :) We set 3.73s up in it and afterwards, we put a 200 horsepower plate kit on it :)

That car is long gone from my life though :( I'm more of a MOPAR girl now :) I got into off roading for a bit and had a 1998 wrangler with all sorts of stuff we did.... Dana 60 rear, nv4500 transmission, atlas II transfer case, 37" tires and all of the supporting stuff :) That jeep is actually for sale now since I haven't been on a trail since 2006 :( Oh and I really, really don't like breaking my nails :) I mean a good mani/gel set costs like 70 bucks with tip!

 
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