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First oil change impressions

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Lhymes

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So hit 1600 miles in under a month and just changed the oil today. Considering I want to keep this vehicle as long as possible, I like to get full synthetic in as early as possible and make sure to get out any possible engine bits from machining and breaking it in. Oddly enough, the info calls for 7 quarts in the 5.7L V8, but only 6 quarts came out. Maybe another cup in the old filter? But that still seemed like a lot retained by the engine or possibly they shorted it?

Like my Fords, this one was simple to work on - I love that they have a panel with the plug and filter essentially in your face when you go under front end. Besides the fact that I didn't get 7 quarts out, my biggest problem was that the factory put the plug on so damn tight, when I finally broke it loose, I smacked my arm right below the wrist so hard on the plastic guard that i got a really deep cut essentially to the bone. That said, some adhesive bandage and three butterfly bandages later, I'm fine. If you plan on doing your oil changes, I'd highly recommend against a a socket, and possibly using a small mallet to gently loosen the plug - I've never encounter a factory tightening the damn plug and filter so tight.

Lastly, the oil life reset is the same as the previous 3rd gens - press power button twice without holding brake, pump gas pedal 3 times, then press button to turn off.
 
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#2 ·
More than likely the oil was filled properly at the factory. When the engine is first being broken in, it's common for the engine to use a little oil because the piston rings haven't seated yet. This is why a lot of people like to break their engine in hard so their piston rings will seat as quickly as possible. This will give you more HP and will use less oil when broken in properly; there can be a noticeable power difference in an engine that's been broken in properly and one that has been babied. The stock oil filter holds about 1/4-1/2 quart of oil, so you're missing about 1/2-3/4 which was probably burned off while you were driving and breaking in your engine.

There is a bigger oil filter out there if you're looking for more oil capacity; it's exactly the same as the stock oil filter except it's 2x longer. The WIX part number is 51515; you can cross reference that with whatever brand you prefer to use.

I have a Fumoto oil drain valve on my Charger. I'm not sure if the thread size and pitch is the same between it and the Durango, but the part number is F-106. You can check the specs on that for compatibility. That's the best $20-$30 investment you can make when it comes to avoiding injuries and saving time and being more convenient when it comes to oil changes.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Belinda said:
I have a Fumoto oil drain valve on my Charger. I'm not sure if the thread size and pitch is the same between it and the Durango, but the part number is F-106. You can check the specs on that for compatibility. That's the best $20-$30 investment you can make when it comes to avoiding injuries and saving time and being more convenient when it comes to oil changes.
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Oh man I can't thank you enough for the suggestion of that oil drain valve! I'm going to get a F-106N so I can stick a piece of PVC hose on it when draining. Also thanks for the good info on the oil that I got out, also. The part number on MOPAR for the oil drain plug for the 2014 Durango is 06507741AA, which is essentially every Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler, so it should definitely work.

Just another thing to note for diyers - the gasket on the original filter had stuck to the engine and didn't come off with the filter. This is very uncommon unless you don't apply a very small amount of oil to a new filters rubber gasket. It's also very easy to overlook. I'm assuming they don't at the factory, so just be cautious with your first oil change.
 
#4 ·
Thats what I did on my challenger, the n-type with PVC hose clamped on. no more removing the plastic shield and their is enough space to reach in and open valve. I changed my 3.6 oil out at 500 miles for synthetic. that oil actually looked a little dirty, but figured it was due to break in.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
dizzyD said:
Thats what I did on my challenger, the n-type with PVC hose clamped on. no more removing the plastic shield and their is enough space to reach in and open valve. I changed my 3.6 oil out at 500 miles for synthetic. that oil actually looked a little dirty, but figured it was due to break in.
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Same. The oil that came out was a little dirtier than I expected. Can't wait to install the valve! Will be able to drain directly into disposal jugs without making a huge mess with the oil pan / funnel anymore!
 
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#6 ·
My 2013 used a good Qt in he first 1500 miles.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
IndyDurango said:
Isn't the stocker oil already synth?

If not, give it another full change timeline/mileage THEN swap to synth and never look back.

IndyDurango
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Nah, the oil that came out was definitely not full synth. Might've been a blend, but was rather dark.
 
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#9 ·
All new D's come with DINO Oil! YUCK
Full SYN for me since 1200 miles.
STEVE
 
#10 ·
Just finished 1st oil change. The oil looked pretty good still. I am surprised the drain plug is not magnetic. (I put a magnet on the back of it after)
I used Mobile 1 5-20 with Slick 50 fully synthetic additive.

My MPG according to the computer has been 12.2 MPG over the 1100 miles...

Looking forward to getting my CAI next week.
 
#11 ·
I'm new to Dodge and this engine, so forgive the questions, but....

Is this my Oil Drain Plug? I'm 95% sure it is since I see no other visible plugs, but just don't want to take it off and have red fluid drain out! Also - I've never had a vehicle that didn't have a spin-on oil filter. Are there any cautions/tips regarding the changing of the filter?

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
What is the Mopar part number for a 5.7L oil filter for my 2014 D?
 
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#13 ·
CruizinLG said:
I'm new to Dodge and this engine, so forgive the questions, but....

Is this my Oil Drain Plug? I'm 95% sure it is since I see no other visible plugs, but just don't want to take it off and have red fluid drain out! Also - I've never had a vehicle that didn't have a spin-on oil filter. Are there any cautions/tips regarding the changing of the filter?

Thanks!

View attachment 15980
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You have a V6 that is it.
Your filter is a replaceable cartridge. You can buy genuine cartridges in bulk on ebay
STEVE
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
Thanks Steve!
I actually changed my oil today - M1 5W20, Mopar Filter, and installed a Fumoto Valve.

Everything went well except when I attempted to Reset the Oil Life indicator. I've tried the procedure at least a dozen times, but it just won't reset. I re-read the procedure several times and although I think I'm doing it correctly, it just won't reset. I'm following the procedure that is written in the book and mentioned in the initial post here;
press power button twice without holding brake, pump gas pedal 3 times, then press button to turn off. Weird.....but annoying.
 
#18 ·
I made my first oil change at 3k with the factory breakin oil and use RP 5-20. It's not cheap (almost twice what I can get Mobil 1 for) but friction and wear tests I have researced justify the price for me. This is a very controversial question. I also change at every 5k. I'm just over 13k and am on my 3rd oil change. Also. . the 5.7 holds 7.2 quarts not the 7 as advertised. As per dip stick and dealership also states this .I will also be changing other fluids out to RP when intervals arise.
 
#19 ·
I thought I saw RP for under $30 at Walmart!?
If lots of short trips (under 10 miles) 3k is fine for conventional otherwise 4500. Synthetic can do longer like 4500-7500.
I think the DD oil monitoring is based on 7000-10000 miles.
As far as first oil change opinions are divided. Some prefer early, some in the middle and others stick to oil monitoring.
 
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