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Rear Drop Blocks

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IndyDurango

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Yes (Neil) I do have a set of rear drop blocks now. :bugeyed: It only took me 11 years! :cheesy:

Mine are 1.25" thick, second hand, all aluminum, never used and there's a hole right down the middle of them.

I'm out of my element here so I have a few questions:
  1. As the blocks are 1.25" thick, does that mean the drop will be 1.25" lower? I'm not interested in anything much past 1.5" do to various things including pinion angle, etc.
  2. Suggestions on where to get the best/right U-bolts? What size?
  3. What additional hardware, including U-bolts, will I need? I want to have everything on hand and go on with all new "stuff."
  4. Any good links to quality step by step DIY instructions?
TIA!

IndyDurango
 
#2 ·
Any spring shop can make you a custom set of U-bolts.
I don't think with 1.25" blocks you'll have much worry about a pinion angle change. After they're in for a few miles, re-tighten them again.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
#3 ·
Bout damn time!

You have the 9 1/4 rear and, if I remember correctly, the axle tube is 3 5/8" OD. Most over-the-counter U-bolts are for the more common 3" axles. I got my kit through DJM (steel blocks.) From posts, big rig repair shops make U-bolts. Note: I don't know if it's just spewing word of mouth, but I've seen a lot of posts recommending against aluminum blocks because they can crack. Again I don't know if it's true??

1.25" and you're fine. 3" or more, and you have to start addressing angles. And yes, they'll raise your axle 1.25" which lowers you by the same amount. Mine is roughly 1.75" with 1" blocks and Ram shackles.
 
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#4 ·
I'm strongly against aluminum blocks, I've run then before and it was a big mistake!!

I had a friend who used aluminum blocks on his 03' Dak and one broke and it almost wrecked him! Luckily he was only going about 30 mph at the time but, if he'd been going down the interstate, it'd have cost him big time! I saw the blocks before and after and they were new, never used, blocks and they still broke so I'd definitely stay away from them!

From one DOC friend to another, please don't use aluminum. Get angled steel blocks and nothing less!
 
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#5 ·
Seriously, your thinking about dropping. WOW! :shock: :wall: :wall: :wall:

Anyway, I don't know where to tell you to get U-bolts, up to you.

As for your DIY:
  1. Chock front wheels.
  2. Lift under center of the rear differential to get both tires about 2" off the ground.
  3. Block under each side frame as near the bumper as you can and secure.
  4. Remove tires.
  5. Lower differential jack to settle as suspension drops. Don't let the diff hover above the jack but just touch it at full depression.
  6. Cut OEM U-bolts (easy way) or remove U-nuts.
  7. Remove U-bolts.
  8. Gently use center jack to lower differential just enough to remove OEM blocks on each side.
  9. Install new blocks (might have to lower just a little more.)
  10. Set in both new blocks using mount tit and to axle stud mount.
  11. Raise center jack just enough to take some slack out of the mounting blocks without putting any pressure on the chassis.
  12. Measure from a fixed location on the frame at the front suspension that's the same on both sides using a tape measure and ensure it's the same on each side to ensure your rear end is square (major requirement!)
  13. Bolt down the rear axle hosing, U-bolts and blocks ensuring the measurement stays the same on both sides to ensure it's still square.
  14. Ensure the rear measurements are square again (0" is what we're looking for as square as possible!!)
  15. Torque the U-nuts to 90 ft-lbs and,IMHO, I'd use blue lok-tight.
  16. Jack up the diff.
  17. Replace the tires.
  18. Torque the lugs lugs to 85-115 ft-lbs.
  19. Lower the rear end by removing the blocks.
  20. Get an alignment.
 
#6 ·
Alignment? There's nothing to align in the rear.
 
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#7 ·
Even if the torsion bars were untouched, there'll be a slight change in caster? it'll be slightly more positive.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
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