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My oil pan has moles!

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#21 ·
(5) Remove front driving axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - C205F - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove both engine mount support brackets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/FRONT MOUNT - REMOVAL).
Click to expand...
Where can I find more detail on how to complete this part of the job?
 
#22 ·
WhiteD said:
(5) Remove front driving axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - C205F - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove both engine mount support brackets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/FRONT MOUNT - REMOVAL).
Click to expand...
Where can I find more detail on how to complete this part of the job?
Click to expand...
I'll try to remember to clip it from the FSM later today or tonight, too busy now.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Tomk, thanks for posting those steps.

Yes, I'm back. Seems my JB Weld fix didn't last and the oil's leaking again Dangit!

I assume the engine has to be supported with a engine lift or something since the engine mounts have to come out? It doesn't look like the steering rack has to drop though? I thought it would for sure.

I may just have a local garage do this if I can't think of an easier fix. I like wrenching on stuff, but this job looks like a real PITA.
 
#24 ·
There's a support bar that's used to hold the engine from the top while removing the axle and pan. Same thing for mounts.
 
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#25 ·
Maybe you can rent an engine support fixture somewhere?
  • FSM Front Mount Removal Procedure:

    On 4WD vehicles the engine front support brackets attach directly to the engine block and axle housing. The brackets provide a solid interconnection for these units (Fig. 49 & 50.) The engine must be supported during any service procedures involving the front support assemblies.
    1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
    2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
    3. Install engine lifting (support) fixture.
    4. Remove front axle (Refer to section 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - C205F - REMOVAL)
    5. Left mount insulator only. Remove starter wires and starter motor assembly (Refer to section 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
    6. Remove insulator to frame through bolt (Fig. 51)
    7. Raise engine slightly.
    8. Remove upper insulator to support bracket stud nut and insulator to support through bolt.
    9. Remove engine mount insulator (Fig. 49 & 50)
    10. If engine support bracket is to be removed/replaced, remove support bracket to transmission bell housing bolts and three (3) support bracket to engine block bolts. Remove support bracket (Fig. 49 & 50)
 

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#27 ·
It's not easy, best let a shop do it. That way, if they drop some large piece of your driveline and break something, they have to fix it at their expense not yours.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
I'm leaning that way.

It sort of makes me a little embarrassed.

I have a 72 Barracuda that I've done pretty much all the work on, except paint. I installed/uninstalled the tranny twice (don't ask LOL) and just did a rear end center chunk swap. I like wrenching but that car is my toy and the Durango is my family vehicle and I can't tie it up for a couple weeks while I muddle through all those steps by myself. Feels like admitting defeat.

I was considering trying to re-patch it, but maybe I just need to nut up and spend the damn money.

I have a shop in mind, the guy is a great transmission/rear end guy, but I'm not sure if he does this sort of thing though. Seeing that dealer price of $700 scares the hell out of me; assuming $75 an hour, that's almost 10 hours book time I guess.

Maybe I can make lemonade out of this and at least get an upgraded pan. I have a Milodon in my Barracuda. Anyone running one or is stock still the way to go?

UPDATE
Well, I contacted a shop I trust and he quoted me $530, plus tax, all in for a factory pan and gasket. He'll also check/measure the oil pump while he's in there. $175 of that's for the gasket and pan from the dealer, so $360 or so for not having to attempt this by myself is a good enough deal.

It's going in on Monday.

Damn, spending $500 on something that won't net performance or "smiles" gains kinda sucks eggs! LOL
 
#29 ·
Shadango,

Sounds to me like the right way to go. I too like to turn wrenches when I get the chance, but such a major job on a DD is best left to those with the tools and place to do it.

BTW, you might consider putting some Castor Beans in the new pan in case any of your "moles" contemplate a return. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Don
 
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#32 ·
Shadango,

This thread is old enough that I forgot I'd already chimed in about the beans. As I understand it, castor beans are quite poisonous and were recommended as an effective aid to deal with animals like moles, etc. that would seek to tear up ones yard.

I was told you put them in the holes and the moles or whatever eat them and are no more. I believe the castor oil that was given to many a kid years back to keep things moving digestively comes from the same bean, although I don't know why the oil from the beans isn't poisonous to humans??

Don
 
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#33 ·
Castor fuel was used for many early racing cars.
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Including the parts? A new pan is $100 and the gasket is $30-40. That only leaves $150-250 in labor at that price. The local dealer wants $80 or so an hour labor plus parts and, frankly, I don't really trust the dealer.

The truck is going in next week to a shop do I trust (not a dealer.) This guy is known for being honest and reasonable. My father-in-law took his Dakota there for rear end work 3 years ago after being quoted $800-$1200 at three other places and got out of there for like $500 and the truck has been perfect since. I had my tranny redone there after a well known national chain couldn't get it right after two tries, and he charged me less than they did to boot!

For this job the labor is about $360 which seems fair to me considering I start to get all queezy just thinking about how much of a PITA this job is without a lift, supports, etc. LOL I dunno, there's a lot of work there per the FMS clips that were posted and I want it done right, not just cheap.
 
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