I had to leave town and didn't get a chance to troubleshoot it yet, but I saw the voltage was right at 12 and not charging. It was probably running off just the battery. I restarted it later and the voltage was back to normal, then I restarted it again and it was back to 12. When I get home I'll have the alternator checked. I know the voltage regulation is controlled by the PCM but where's the regulator?
Voltage regulator??
Neil
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Well, it's not over. It's been fine for two weeks but then the check engine light came on, voltage went back down and something was cooking. Fortunately I was just around the corner so I popped the hood and the smell was coming from the PCM. Code 1389, ASD short. I pulled off the connectors and pin 12 on C3 was melted out of the PCM and stuck in the connector and the FSM confirms pin 12 is to the ASD. My neighbor, the mechanic, will try to figure it out. Now the questions are:
The OD OFF light flickered and a buzz came from the cluster this time. I did have the tranny rebuilt about a year and a half ago and the OD Off circuit didn't work after the tranny work, but I never used the OD button and it may have meant to take out the transmission so I let it go.
- New (used) PCM is shot. Did it have the short or is it elsewhere? Need a new connector or harness and a working PCM at a minimum.
Is my old PCM really bad or do I have electrical problems elsewhere? Hate to fry another PCM
The OD OFF light flickered and a buzz came from the cluster this time. I did have the tranny rebuilt about a year and a half ago and the OD Off circuit didn't work after the tranny work, but I never used the OD button and it may have meant to take out the transmission so I let it go.
Pins are available from the dealer, or you can get them from an electronics store, and you'll also need removal and install punches for them (also available from electronics stores.) You were obviously pulling more juice than the sensor was meant to handle and could have a short in the automatic shut down or fuel pump relays. Pull out your ohmmeter and go to work. Good luck!
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Circumstantial fate? Could the newer PCM not have been fully connected thus allowing/creating a short? Are you certain it was fully seated and connected?
IndyD
IndyD
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Hm, interesting.
According to my 01 wiring diagrams (and I think the 99 5.9L is the same), pin 12 is the feed from the ASD into the PCM. The only way I can see that pin melting is a short inside the PCM *OR* loss of battery connection causing the line voltage to soar (which would probably toast a bunch of other things as well.)
According to my 01 wiring diagrams (and I think the 99 5.9L is the same), pin 12 is the feed from the ASD into the PCM. The only way I can see that pin melting is a short inside the PCM *OR* loss of battery connection causing the line voltage to soar (which would probably toast a bunch of other things as well.)
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may have just been a bad PCM? the one I got was a POS and didn't work, it smelled of electrical burning.
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ASD? Definition? TIA.
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I believe it's the Auto Shutdown Relay, I may be wrong though!
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I'm supposed to be able to read that thing? 
IndyD
IndyD
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I don't have the manual (errrrr? your paper manual) in front of me but something is different. It does connect the coil and ASD.tomk said:
What did it do, or not do?greendurango said:
As sure as I can be (it was the only one still with a locking tab, until I took it off this time)IndyDurango said:
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According to my book, heating of a wire or connector is usually caused by a bad ground. Clean the connections to the battery and the ground wires going to the motor block and alternator.
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it wouldn't do anything and reeked of burnt wiring like it had shorted out. also the programmer's files were corrupt so it was basically useless. I called Hypertech and they said if the Hypertech was installed on a Mopar Performance PCM, then it'd cause the files to corrupt.Neil said:
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Well it's been three weeks (knock on wood) and I'm scared to say it but it might be fixed. It looks like it was a bad connection in one of the PCM plugs, specifically the wire that burned up the previous used PCM. I got a second used PCM and it was good for a week then the same original codes popped up? WTF!?!? My mechanic neighbor kept at it and finally took the connector apart and found the female pins were all loose in the backshell. Wiggling the suspect wire would kick the alt back on and then it'd come loose again. He tried to get the connector to work but the codes came and went, it wouldn't communicate with the OBDII port. and was in limp-in mode because of the tranny code. I finally bought a replacement connector from the dealer ($55 over the counter and $38 online from the same dealer. I hate it when they do that!!) Anyway, with the new $38 connector all appears well. This likely means my original Mopar PCM is alright but I haven't tried it as I've been waiting to see if all is well or another PCM burns up. I'll install the Mopar soon and see.{list]New Alt
New Battery
Two used PCMs
New connector[/list]
Oh, and DAMN IT, Indy was right!
New Battery
Two used PCMs
New connector[/list]
Oh, and DAMN IT, Indy was right!
Loose connections were the bottom line cause.IndyDurango said:
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glad you found the problem! :thumbsup:
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:cheesy:
(happy to hear it's fixed)
IndyD
(happy to hear it's fixed)
IndyD
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I will you a little bit of cash as long as it's not too much
Umm, read much? That post is from 12 YEARS ago.
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