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My oil pan has moles!

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shadango

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
How much work is it to change out the oil pan in a '03 Durango, 5.9, 4x4?

I found my oil pan has rust "scabs" all over it. They're generally dime sized or smaller but one was a quarter sized and, after I flaked off the rust, it started seeping over time. Not dripping yet, but a good seepage. So today I drained the oil, cleaned it up and used JB Weld to cover up the scabs for now.

Not sure why this happened?? My 92 Dakota never did this. Is the oil pan just crap metal? Is this common?

The Durango has 70k on her and I do take her to the beach once a year, but we avoid salt water like the plague and, when we get back, I get under there and wash everything (I'm a real sight to see in my trunks and goggles with a hose. LOL) My Dakota has been on the beach as much and never had this issue.

I was looking for a way to change out the pan without lifting the engine out of the bay and it looks like the front diff has to drop for sure, and maybe the steering rack?? I also have a slight seepage in the end seal on the diff housing so maybe I can fix that while it's down for this.

Anyone ever do it this way?

Thanks for any advice guys.

Dave
 
#2 ·
Never heard of that. It's not hard to take the pan off, transmission service does it all the time. Get a tranny service and have them put a new pan that you provide back on instead of the one they take off. Done.

IndyDurango
 
#3 ·
Indy, I believe he's talking about the engine oil pan. He's right on dropping the axle. I'd get a new pan and primer and then paint it the color of choice prior to install.
 
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#4 ·
shadango,

My '02 has the same issue. I noticed one major spot today on the right side of the "sump" portion of the pan. Strangest thing! I've never seen this before on any of my other vehicles and was surprised how far into the thickness of the pan the corrosion has gone.

If you figure out the procedure for this, please let me know and I'll do the same.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
WhiteD said:
shadango,

My '02 has the same issue. I noticed one major spot today on the right side of the "sump" portion of the pan. Strangest thing! I've never seen this before on any of my other vehicles and was surprised how far into the thickness of the pan the corrosion has gone.

If you figure out the procedure for this, please let me know and I'll do the same.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my biggest one is on the sump (passenger side) and that's the one seeping? plus a bunch of small ones. For now, I wiped it down with alcohol, scuffed it up, and then used some JB weld on it. I figure that'll work for what it has to do? of course it looks crappy.

MWEED, think the rack has to be dropped too?

What a pain in butt!!
 
#8 ·
Tranny pans can rust through also so not that bad. Same thing goes for them, primer and paint.
 
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#10 ·
Tazdevil said:
The oil pan on my 4.7 is pretty rusty and I've been pondering the same question. How to change it. Doesn't look easy!
Click to expand...
they probably don't prep those things good enough at the factory, thus the reason they rust and peel!
 
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#12 ·
The prepping methods have changed over the years. To save a dime, they eliminate or cut corners on processes deemed unnecessary, painting is one. Also, the removal of lead from paint creates a higher hurdle as lead provided more resistance to chemicals and heat. They also use lighter or less metals to do the same job as it helps lighten vehicle when all added up.
 
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#13 ·
I had one go bad on my '69 Firebird. I had the engine out already so fixing it was no big deal. I did one on my '71 Ford Galaxie 500. I just did one on my 4.0 Jeep, but all that had to come off was the exhaust.

I'd have to look at the pan under the D. I doubt it's easy. in the salt belt, it's not unheard of to have a rock chip the coating and have rust start.
 
#14 ·
As my Grandfather Stuckey would have said, put some Castor Beans in there and your problems are through.

Don. :lol: :lol:
 
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#15 ·
FSM:

4wd removal:
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove front driving axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - C205F - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove both engine mount support brackets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/FRONT MOUNT - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove transmission inspection cover.
(8) Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket.

4wd install:

(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 5/16 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 59).
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Fig. 60).
(3) Apply small amount of Mopart Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the cap and the cylinder block.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 N?m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N?m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34 N?m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install transmission inspection cover.
(10) Install engine mount support brackets and insulators (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/FRONT MOUNT - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install front driving axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - C205F - INSTALLATION).
(12) Lower vehicle
(13) Connect the distributor cap.
(14) Install dipstick.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
 
#18 ·
WhiteD said:
If the dealer charges $700 to do the job, I could buy a tig welder and some 1/8" plate for the same money and never have to disassemble the vehicle.
Click to expand...
Hm, well, make sure all those unburned hydrocarbons in the crankcase are dealt with first. Else the vehicle might disassemble itself for you. :)
 
#19 ·
And the next post we see from you'd be, my D blew up. The welding idea isn't bad as long as the metal next to the holes is in good shape (doubtful) but you'd still have to pull the pan to do it, so you might as well save the price of the welder and just buy a new pan and do it right.
 
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#20 ·
tomk said:
WhiteD said:
If the dealer charges $700 to do the job, I could buy a tig welder and some 1/8" plate for the same money and never have to disassemble the vehicle.
Click to expand...
Hm, well, make sure all those unburned hydrocarbons in the crankcase are dealt with first. Else the vehicle might disassemble itself for you :)
Click to expand...
Nice!! Unburned hydrocarbons.
 
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shadango
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