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fine99

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Anybody got tips on changing the rear wheel bearing? My 99 rear pasenger side bearing is going out and starting to hear noise from that wheel. Anything would help thanks.
 

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It changes just like a standard Chevy axle. Jack up rear axle and put on stands. Pull the rear wheel and brake drum. Pull the diff cover and drain. Remove the center pin from the carrier assembly. Push the axle towards the center of the D and remove the c-clip from the axle. Remove axle. Remove axle seal and bearing from axle tube. Replace with new bearing and seal. Reverse the operation. If both bearings are the same age do the same for the other side.
 
IndyDurango said:
I have been thinking about changing the rear bearings myself. I have a tiny bit of play in the passenger side. Thanks for the how-to Mike!

IndyDurango
play in and out? what kind of play? Kit and Play? LOL

I just put new tires on my D and the road noise is ridiculous. They're Goodyear Forteras. I'm surprised how loud they are. It's not a bearing wubba wubba noise or anything. Sounds like a big lug tire rolling down the road. Very disappointing if it really is the tires.
 
I just did my two rear wheel bearings as well as the two rear diff bearings. My experience went sorta like this.
  1. Take it to the neighborhood shop
  2. Wait two weeks
  3. Pick up vehicle
  4. Return vehicle to fix a new noise from the rear end
  5. Pick it up again the same day running like new
  6. Pay the man a lot less than if I'd had the work done in the US
  7. Thrash the crap out of it to make sure it works.
They actually managed to find the parts here. The second visit was needed to readjust and shim the front diff bearing. All is well now. Must have gotten some water in the rear end during our river crossing in Laos.

The SCT tune and oil separator appear to be doing their jobs as the pinging problem has been tamed to a large extent. It still rattles some, but at different power levels than before. I have a wide-band 02 air/fuel meter coming to help figure out where it could use some tune tweakage. At least now I can go up hills without rattling my fillings. More to come.

Dave
 
MWeed said:
It changes just like a standard Chevy axle. Jack up rear axle and put on stands. Pull the rear wheel and brake drum. Pull the diff cover and drain. Remove the center pin from the carrier assembly. Push the axle towards the center of the D and remove the c-clip from the axle. Remove axle. Remove axle seal and bearing from axle tube. Replace with new bearing and seal. Reverse the operation. If both bearings are the same age do the same for the other side.
You also have to clean the bearing seat very well and it's very good to aply a high-temperature grease to the oil seal before installing and the face of the seal is supposed to be flush with the axle housing when correctly installed. You can use a socket that matches the outer end of the seal to tap it in place. The same goes with the bearing just make sure that it's tapped into the full depth of the recess and the numbers on the bearing are visible from the outer end of the axle housing.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Great info thanks you guys are awesome!! Also does the bearing or the seal have to be pressed on as well?
 

Attachments

No the bearing sits in the axle tube and then you place the seal in the end of the tube.
You can tap it in with a mallet and a small wooden block
Steve
DOC Pres
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Alrighty then I think you guys gave me the best guiduance on this subject I feel confident enough to start this weekend thanks for all your information this forum is awesome!! :cheesy: :cheesy: :D :)
 
That's what we're here for!
Steve
DOC Pres
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hi me again how many quarts to fill the differential back up?
 
If you have an 81/4 axle use 4.4 pints of gear oil (plus .25 pint of lube for the anti-lock, if so equipped.) The 91/4 uses 4.9 pints plus anti-lock lube.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Once again thanks there's just plenty of info on this site awesome!! :lol:
 
For those of you who have enough room when their D is up for this repair, the axle itself is the greatest seal remover there is. Just slip the end of the axle into the seal and pry it out, the lip for the c-clip will hold onto the seal and, voilá, it'll be gone.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Hey guy's I finished took me all day Saturday but hey it's done and I don't have that grinding noise anymore. Thanks for all the info here now my truck is ready for spring break heading to the beach woo hoo!!

This Fourm is AWESOME!! :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:
 
fine99 said:
Hey guy's I finished took me all day Saturday but hey it's done and I don't have that grinding noise anymore. Thanks for all the info here now my truck is ready for spring break heading to the beach woo hoo!!

This Forum is AWESOME!! :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:
Yes, this is a special place. Glad your D is back in business. How about upgrading your status to member, and enjoying all of the additional benefits, and supporting a wonderful site.

Have fun at the beach! :)

http://durangoclub.com/Join.htm

Ron
 
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