4.7 EGR Replacement
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Thread: 4.7 EGR Replacement

  1. #1
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    4.7 EGR Replacement

    Did the EGR on my wife's 07 4.7 last weekend to deal with a MIL, the work was long overdue but she needs a sticker this month so I figured I better get it knocked out.

    Man was this thing a bear. Its down on the back of the block, behind the intake manifold, you basically can't see it at all, you have to do virtually everything by touch. Figured I'd do a quick writeup in case my experience might benefit anyone else.

    Tools needed:
    - flatblade screwdriver
    - 3/8 ratchet w/6" extension
    - 10mm 3/8" socket
    - 13mm 3/8" socket
    - 1/4" drive ratchet
    - 8mm deep well 1/4" socket
    - Magnetic screw retriever

    Procedure:
    - Remove the air intake off the throttle body resonator box, flathead screwdriver to loosen the clamps and just pop it off.
    - Unbolt the two bolts holding on the throttle body resonator and remove. Take care to disconnect the IAT sensor which is right there at the base.
    - Find the EGR and EGR tube. The tube is the hard metal line that is covered with a fabric cover and runs up to the back of the throttle body, if you follow it down you'll find where it bolts to the side of the EGR.
    - Locate the EGR electrical connector, I found its best to remove this first. Pop the red connector tab to the right and remove it completely, then depress the tab and wiggle the connector off. This was surprisingly difficult as you have to get both hands in there, one to squeeze the locking tab, the other to grab and wiggle the connector.
    - Once the connector is out of the way, I found it easier to remove the bolts for the EGR tube before the EGR itself. Two 8mm bolts on the driver's side of the EGR. With the electrical connector out of the way you can see the front bolt well enough to get the 1'4" drive deep well 8mm socket in there and start to loosen it. I'd opt to loosen it, then move to the back bolt and remove it fully before finishing the front bolt as the tube will start to wobble and rotate on the last bolt and its just easier to get to the front one. Once both bolts are off and you have them (or have retrieved them using your magnet), the tube just pops out.
    - Once the tube is out of the way, put your 13mm socket on the 6" extension and fish it down to the rear EGR bolt. I was able to get my hand in there after climbing up and laying on the front of the engine bay. Once the socket is on the bolt, put your ratchet on and carefully break it loose...I need to put by breaker pipe on the end of my ratchet handle to bust both bolts loose, after the first 1/4 turn they come along fairly easily. The bolts are about 1.5" long, so you've got a ways to turn them before they're out.
    - Once both bolts are out, you can pull the EGR out, my gasket was good and stuck, so it took a bit of prying back and forth for me to get it out, once it popped loose I was able to twist and turn it to get it out. Only half of the original gasket came out so be careful and feel around there to make sure you get it all. I opted to use my shopvac after I felt the surface was clean on the block and tried to get every bit of scrap gasket out of there.
    - Installation is basically the reverse and you'll be happy to know if just as tight and difficult to get every thing back in. The new gasket has square bolt holes that will keep the mounting bolts captive, this was a godsend as it would have been damn near impossible to get the gasket lined up properly along with the EGR on the block and be able to get the bolts on.
    - I do recommend you get the EGR bolts so they bite but leave them loose enough that you can wiggle the EGR around to reposition it. The EGR tube was difficult to line up correctly so that it goes into the throttle body and the bolt holes line up properly, took me a few tries before everything was lines up and I stopped having to retrieve the bolts from various crevices. Once all the bolts are lined up, tighten them all down. I snugged up the tube bolts to the point where the EGR was moving when I tried to turn the bolts, then moved to the EGR bolts, got them completely done and then finished up the tube bolts.
    - Last thing was the electrical connector, don't forget the security tab, and put your air intake back together.

    Done. Have a beer.
    Durangutan and Don Fox like this.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Durangutan's Avatar
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    I knew the 4.7 was a nightmare compared to the 5.7 but dang, wow what a PIA. Thanks for the write-up.
    2007 HEMI Nightrunner D
    1996 Ford E-350 SuperBeast

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Took me probably 3-4 hours of work start to finish, I expected it to be difficult, but jeeze!

    Hope its of use to someone else.
    Don Fox likes this.

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